Friday, 9 September 2011

Tour of Britain - Stage 2 Guide

Kendal, the Auld Grey Town (© Ally McGurk, CC2.0)
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Stage 2 is a considerably shorter ride than Stage 1 at 137.7km, but with a Category 2 climb in the first 10km it should have all but the fittest climbers feeling the burn early on. There are a pair of Cat 3s later on in the race, but a relatively flat section in between will allow the pack a chance to catch up, putting the pressure on the climbers in an effort to redress the balance and ensuring that everyone will be glad to see the finish line. However, since the finish line is marked by Blackpool's 158m tower, they're going to be able to see it while they still have a long way to go - and that saps will like nothing else when your legs are hurting and you've had enough.

Scafell Pike (© Ann Bowker)
The race starts today in the Auld Grey Town, Kendal in Cumbria's Lake District - 2292 square kilometres of lakes, moors and mountains (including England's highest, Scafell Pike), frequently included on lists of the world's most beautiful destinations. Designated a National Park in 1951 (the largest in England and Wales), all the land in England reaching an altitude greater than 914m (3000 feet) lies within its boundaries, as do the largest, longest and deepest lakes - which, with one single exception, are never termed lakes: other that Bassenthwaite Lake, they're either tarns, meres, reservoirs or waters.

In former times, Kendal was known as Kirkby Kendal - meaning a village with a church in the Kent Valley and derived from the ancient name Cherchbi, as recorded in the Domesday Book. Its nickname is derived from the grey limestone used to construct many of the buildings in the town. Today, it relies on tourism and IT as the basis of its economy, but in times past it was a centre of cloth manufacture - some manufacturing industry remains, including a pipe tobacco facility, a firm producing turbines and a baby food canning plant operated by the multinational Heinz company. The race begins, as ever, with a neutral zone; which today starts at approximately 10:30 in Abbot Hall Park and heads south along Dowker's Lane before two right turns lead onto the A6 Highgate. This carries the peloton north as far as Stricklandgate, where the riders turn right again onto Blackhall Road and over the bridge for Sandes Avenue and Station Road, following the bend and going straight ahead onto the A685 Appleby Road. After 4.2km, the neutral zone ends at Stocks Farm and the race proper gets underway (54°20'53.35"N 2°42'40.39"W).

Grayrigg (© Alexander P Kapp CC2.0)
Having passed Scalthwaiterigg, the Tour reaches Grayrigg after 4.6km, a small town that hit the headlines in 2007 following the Grayrigg Derailment, a train crash that left one person dead and thirty with serious injuries. Rescue was complicated by the isolated location with access limited to narrow, unsurfaced farm tracks; meaning that mountain rescue helicopters were used to ferry the worst-injured to hospital. The first climb of the stage, a Cat 2, begins 0.9km after Grayrigg as the peloton pass a gate on the left of the road (54°22'13.38"N  2°38'12.22"W). Whilst not too challenging for the initial sections, there are a few fairly steep parts before the road turns a medium 90 degree right 0.21km after a crossroads. It wouldn't usually be a particularly technical corner, but these narrow roads are used as droves by local farmers to move cattle and sheep from one field to another and as such can be very hazardous, especially after rain when the edges can be coated in a lethally slippery film of slurry (it's great for the roadside flowers, however).

Low Gill Viaduct (© David Ashcroft, CC2.0)
At 9.1km, the route takes a very sharp right - again, potentially slippery - onto the B6257. The summit is located 0.2km after the turning, parallel to a lay-by next to a small building among fields full of the slurry-making woolly devils (54°22'57.62"N  2°35'47.76"W). The initial half of the descent is fairly steep and - again due to the sheep and cattle - potentially hazardous despite the lack of tight corners. The underpass under the M6 motorway and railway just before Beck Foot, if used as a route between fields for livestock, could be very hazardous indeed as manure remains soft and slippery in the shade. Just south of the village, the road passes to the right of Low Gill Viaduct - a disused railway viaduct consisting of eleven arches, each 14m wide. The viaduct 190m from end to end and 30m high at the tallest point. A medium left turn lies 1.22km after the lane leading under the viaduct before the Tour reaches Firbank, 11.8km from the start of the race. It was here in 1652 that George Fox preached to a thousand people at a natural rock feature now known as Fox's Pulpit, one of many outdoor sermons he gave and among the most instrumental in bringing about the formation of the Quaker movement. The latter part of the descent is considerably less steep than the former.

Ingmire Hall (© Keith Wright, CC2.0)
After 16.6km, the route arrives at a T-junction with the A684, turning left and crossing a very narrow bridge 0.4km later. It's difficult to see just how narrow it is when approaching from the west, meaning that any rider who fails to study the parcours details sufficiently closely may find themselves running out of road and crashing into the left side railings. If too many riders attempt to cross at the same time, it will be the scene of a crash - as will the road just before it which is guaranteed to cause a pile-up if somebody doesn't brake quickly enough when arriving at the bottleneck where riders wait to cross. A medium right bend follows after 0.45km, before the race passes Ingmire Hall, a stately home of 15th Century origins but much remodeled in the years since - the house is a private residence and not open to the public; however, any spectator who fancies a closer look once the race has passed by can do so by walking along the public footpath that runs part of the way alongside the drive leading to the building.

The peloton arrives at Sedbergh after 18.6km (54°19'22.80"N 2°31'51.69"W), meaning that it is now in the Yorkshire Dales National Park. For many years, Sedbergh's economy has been based largely on its famous boarding school established in 1525 - however, the school was an addition to an already-established town rather than the town growing up around the school, as is made plain by the existence of a Saxon motte-and-bailey castle, the 12th Century parish church and a house dating to the 14th Century. It has also become known as a "book town," the six large independent bookshops and several book dealers bringing further income (and very pleasant employment opportunities) to the community. The stage's first intermediate sprint begins just before the town by a sign for Fairfield Mill (54°19'13.96"N 2°32'40.35"W). The route then takes a very tight right corner to join the A683 (Station Road). The road narrows in some sections before following the banks of the river for 100m and coming to a medium left - potential slurry again, being adjacent to a farm - 0.4km later. 0.55 from the corner is another narrow bridge over the River Lune. The bridge's exit, a slight right under overhanging trees, is also potentially hazardous due to slippery leaves, thorns etc. There is a Roman milestone, a pillar carved with Latin inscriptions, around 1.89km south of the bridge.

Easter Grotto, Ease Gill Caves
The road remains relatively level and free of difficult bends all the way to a bridge slightly narrower than the road in between Barbon and a golf course, then becomes unchallenging again all the way to Casterton located  32.3km from the start (54°12'39.54"N 2°34'40.14"W). Deep below the village are the Ease Gill Caves, until recent reclassification put them into second place behind the Welsh Ogof Draenen system (discovered in 1994 and yet to be fully explored) , the most extensive discovered in Britain. However, its 76km of passages, some of them flooded and thus accessible only to skilled cave divers (an activity that sounds about as fun as having your toenails ripped out with pliers to us), remain the country's most complex network.

Ruskin's View (CC3.0)
2.2km further south is the Devil's Bridge, one of the best-preserved medieval bridges in Britain and which - according the legend shared by many of the other bridges around the world with the same name - was built by the Devil after an old woman made a pact offering him the soul of the first person to cross it. Once he'd finished, the old lady outwitted him by throwing a piece of bread to the other side so that her dog chased after it, thus permitting the devil only the dog's soul. The same legend says that the Great Stone of Fourstones, deposited by an ice age glacier nearby, in fact fell from the Devil's purse as he carried the stones with which he built the bridge. We suspect that nowadays he prefers an Amex Black card. Every Sunday, the bridge becomes a meeting point for hundreds of motorcyclists and for the rest of the week scuba divers can be seen in the river below it. The stage's second intermediate sprint begins as the race passes the car park at the bridge and ends 100m later at the T-junction with the A65. If you're visiting, the little town of Kirkby Lonsdale on the opposite bank is well worth seeing - especially for the view from the churchyard at the northern end of the town, painted by Turner in 1816 and called "one of the loveliest views in England" by the art patron and social reformer John Ruskin: hence its modern name Ruskin's View.

Having turned left onto the much wider road, the peloton round a sweeping right bend and come to a junction and tight right turn leading back onto the A683, immediately crossing the border into Lancashire - in fact, there are sufficient points of reference here that with careful use of a GPS device or good old-fashioned map reading skill, it should be possible to locate a point here where a person would be in Lancashire, Cumbria and North Yorkshire simultaneously.

Thurland Castle (© Karl and Ali CC2.0)
A medium right-hander lies 2.17km south of the junction, then the race arrives at Nether Burrow followed by Tunstall 1.9km later. The landscape here is much flatter than the earlier parts of the stage. Just south of Tunstall and just visible from the route is Thurland Castle (54° 9'7.03"N 2°35'52.05"W). Built in the 14th Century, it fell in a siege in the middle of the 17th Century. It remained a ruin until 1809 when a limited restoration was carried out, full restoration taking place two decades later. Fifty years after restoration, it was left as a hollow shell by  a disastrous fire - only to be restored once again in the years that followed. In recent years it has been divided up and converted into doubtless horribly expensive apartments.

Wennington School (© J Scott CC2.0)
A very sharp right 0.45km after the turning for the castle leads to a tunnel under the railway into Melling, with a church dedicated to St. Wilfrid and often called the Cathedral of the Lune Valley (though it never was a cathedral in reality). It is believed to have started life as a chapel in the now-vanished bailey of the motte standing immediately behind it, one of many in the highest concentration of Norman castles anywhere in Britain other than the Welsh borders. The race turns left just before the church, following an unclassified road leading to a fork where the riders go right onto Lodge Lane, arriving at Wennington 44.1km from the start. Just north of the village is Wennington School, a boys' boarding school housed in a mid-19th Century stately home which, as a result of architectural trends of the time, looks very much how many of us would imagine the 14th Century house that originally stood here to have looked. Arriving at a T-junction with the B6480, the peloton turn sharply right to arrive shortly at Tatham and pass a bridge on the right; then, a short while later, enter the Forest of Bowland - the word forest is used here in its original English sense of meaning an expanse of land used for hunting rather than a large woodland. Two left/right Z-bends either side of a bridge start 1km south of the Tatham bridge, leading immediately into Wray.

Though a tiny rural village, Wray has three claims to fame: first, it has an advanced wireless broadband network offering not only internet but also high-definition television, maintained by Lancashire University; second, it's the Scarecrow capital of England; third, it hosts the not-quite-world-famous Annual Maggot Races. You know it's got to be a great place to live.

Hornby Castle (CC2.0)
The road narrows as it leaves the village, soon passing just south of Hornby at the 49.4km point. Hornby Castle, dating from the 13th Century but much altered over the years into a stately home, should be visible from several points along this road. It remains in private ownership, though now divided into several separate dwellings, and is not open to the public. Having passed over a crossroads, the peloton reach the drinks station 600m later at Lunesdale Court. 0.61km later, the race reaches a T-junction with the A683 and turns left, heading south to pass by Farleton and arrive at Claughton soon afterwards - the village has a large brickworks, thus increasing the probability of hazardous diesel spills on the road from the heavy trucks that deliver materials and take bricks away. Note the aerial ropeworks, a system similar to a cable car, that brings clay from Claughton Moor some distance away in enormous buckets to the brickworks.

Artle Beck (© Karl and Ali CC2.0)
Caton is around 2.89km from Claughton, not 8.1km as the road book suggests (this is apparently a mis-print as it lists points beyond Caton as being less than the 60km from the start listed for Caton). There's a truck repair garage on the eastern side of the village, increasing the potential for diesel spillages once again. Caton is known to have been a Roman town, as proved by the discovery of a millstone inscribed with the name of Emperor Hadrian in the nearby Artle Beck in 1803. The routes passes by the Ship Inn, standing near to a massive oak of great age which, according to local legend, was used by the local monks to display the fish they sold to villagers. The third intermediate sprint begins after 56.4km by the council offices in the town. The race takes the second exit to pass directly through the roundabout, then turns left 300m later onto Quernmore Road. There's a tight 90 degree right at Gresgarth Hall 1.2km from the previous corner - with extensive ornamental grounds open to the public, anyone with an interest on gardening or stately homes should consider a visit once the Tour has left, then an unchallenging wide left/roght Z-bend 0.61km later, followed by a medium left a short way ahead. A medium right on the far edge of a copse could prove slippery and leads to a medium left bend 135m before a medium left corner onto Postern Gate Road. With the exception of a few gentle bends, the route is straight for the next 3.1km to Quernmore, pronounced kwormur in that cunning way with which we Brits like to confuse foreigners.

Strickens Lane - if you're following the route, pay close
attention to your map through the Quernmore-Whittingham
section: there are several corners and junctions and the all
look much the same as this one! (© Tom Richardson CC2.0)
Having passed straight through one crossroads immediately south of the village to enter Bay Horse Road and another where Bay Horse Road crosses Proctor Moss Road, the race reaches a third crossroads 69.5km from the start (53°58'42.16"N 2°45'50.07"W) and turns left onto Delph Lane. The Category 3 climb begins as the race passes to the left of a house and farm (53°57'10.02"N 2°43'23.13"W) with a cattle grid coming 300m further along the road. Another one, 2km ahead, comes 290m before the summit (53°55'57.95"N 2°42'28.85"W). 1.2km ahead, having rounded the medium left around Oakenholme, the peloton turn a medium-sharp right onto Strickens Lane and immediately begin the next climb - the summit is 0.7km ahead (53°55'0.48"N 2°42'44.13"W), shortly before a lane leading up the hill on the right to Bank Farm. The descent isn't steep but due to the straight and undemanding roads should generate high speed.

A short way ahead, the road bends sharply left as a smaller road joins from the right, continuing on through Barnacre and past a turning onto Sullom Side Lane before becoming Sandholm Lane after 81.7km. At what appears to be a 90 degree right bend 0.52km later, the race continues straight ahead to remain on Sandholm Lane (following the apparent bend leads onto Ray Lane), past a farm on the right and onward to another crossroads. Turn left to remain on Smithy Lane, arriving presently at a junction with a potentially slippery left turn under overhanging trees onto Lodge Road running parallel to the M6 motorway and passing through some thick copses to a junction where left carries the race onto Ducketts Lane.

Inglewhite (© Chris Shaw CC2.0)
After 0.8km, the road takes a wide bend to the right and becomes Lydiate Lane, crossing the narrow Badger Bridge half a kilometre further on. At the T-junction 1.2km ahead, turn left onto Bilsborough Lane shortly before it becomes Bourne Brow and then Carron Lane. After 90 degree left, it changes back to Bilsborough Lane again and heads into Inglewhite, once the sight of a cafe housed in the old smithy that was popular with cyclists but has now closed. The village's name is believed to derive from the Gaelic term aingeal, meaning "fire" and referring to the willo-the-wisps which in former times were commonly observed upon the damp village green.

Passing straight through on Inglewhite Road, the peloton arrive at a crossroads while still in the village, travelling straight across and on towards a junction where a road joins from the right. The route goes straight ahead again here and a short way ahead when joined from the same direction by another road, arriving soon at a crossroads where Mill Lane and Syke House Lane join from right and left. They pass straight through once again and arrive at a 90 degree tight right 0.75km later, opposite a farm; travelling through an industrial site a short way ahead - as ever, potential for hazardous diesel spillages. Another crossroads marks the passing of Horns Lane, then a medium 90 degree left 0.37km ahead leads into a much wider right and a medium 90 degree right 0.61km later.

There are many Dun Cow legends in Britain. Most probably
recount fanciful tales of the extinct aurochs, wild cows
far larger and fiercer than the domesticated variety
The next section is unchallenging, though a medium left by the next farm could require some caution if wet. Ashley Lane leads off to the right 0.14km later while the race continues for another 0.79km to a tight 90 degree right onto Halfpenny Lane just before Longridge. A large rib hangs above the doorway of a farmhouse along Halfpenny Lane - according to legend, it belonged to a giant cow named the Dun Cow who roamed the area during a plague outbreak, curing people by giving them her milk. When she died of exhaustion after a witch milked her into a sieve rather than a bucket, she was buried - apart from the rib - under Cow Hill a short way from here. Nobody has ever taken a sample from the rib to ascertain what it comes from, but nowadays people tend to assume it belonged to either a whale or an aurochs, the vast and fierce wild cows which once roamed Europe.

Whittingham Hospital - once the largest mental asylum
in Great Britain (CC2.0)
At a T-junction 0.8km ahead, the race turns right onto the B5269 running straight and level into the parish of Whittingham at 99.1km from the start where the road suddenly takes a sweeping turn to the right preceding a very tight 100 degree left corner 0.29km ahead. As more houses begin to appear along the roadsides, the race reaches Whittingham's largest village Goosnargh. Work began on a mental asylum near the village in 1869, opening to provide treatment (or what passed for psychiatric treatment in the 1870s, at any rate) for 1000 patients four years later - bizarrely, the hospital incorporated a brewery in the early days. By 1939, it had grown to include a Catholic chapel, an Anglican church, a butcher, several farms, a telephone exchange, reservoirs, a gasworks and a post office and was home to more than 3500 patients - making it the largest mental hospital (as asylums had been renamed) in Great Britain.

Chingle Hall, scene of much spookiness
Finally, by 1960, the psychiatric establishment as a whole began to realise that mentally ill people required specialised, individual treatment rather than being herded into what was little more than a vast, grim prison. Allegations of cruelty made by patients against staff, both here and at other hospitals, forced the hospitals to open up to inspection and the findings were unfavourable. After almost a century, Whittingham's asylum began to be wound down, patients being reallocated to smaller units where they could be given the sort of help they needed. The last patients left the hospital - now offering modern treatments but located in buildings hopelessly outdated, in 1995. There are plans to convert the remaining buildings into apartments, but these have been held back by uncertainty over the future of the proposed Broughton bypass.

As would be expected, locals tell of all sorts of unearthly goings-on taking place in the hospital buildings at night. Just west of the village, 14th Century Chingle Hall, said to be the most haunted place in Lancashire. Tapping noises are supposedly heard coming from the known priest holes; regular claims that ghostly figures have been seen gliding around the house and grounds, including various monks around the hallway and stairs; a poltergeist is blamed for moving things around in the kitchen and orbs, mysterious lights, disembodied voices and other similar stuff is recorded whenever anyone gets permission from the house's owner to carry out an investigation (it's funny how ghost hunters never leave a property saying, "Nope, didn't find a thing," isn't it?)

Goosnargh. Looks normal, doesn't it? Ooooh no. It was
designed by Stephen King and Hieronymous Bosch. When
they were both on LSD. (© David Metcalfe CC2.0)
One strange story claims that, during the 1970s, one of the beams in the building's chapel mysteriously went up in flames before just as mysteriously going out again, leaving no signs of charring nor smell of smoke. That beam, and several others, have long been known to be carved with strange symbols; however, dendrochronological and chemical investigation has revealed that the timbers are firstly much older than the house and secondly have an unusually high salt content (as do those in the parish church), suggesting that they were recovered from a foundered ship - an not uncommon practice in the past and suggesting that the spooky carvings are nothing more weird than ancient ship builder's marks, an earlier variant of the marks still left on wood by craftsmen today. The spontaneous flames? Well, try to explain it if you wish. I don't feel the need to spend undue time thinking about it.

Oh, and as if giant cows, haunted houses and derelict mental asylums aren't enough weirdness for one rural English village, the parish was home between 1962 and 1991 to the UK Warning and Monitoring System which left a huge, then top-secret, nuclear bunker lying derelict many metres underground; a facility that would have been the Northern Britain Command Centre had the Cold War ever developed into an atomic war.

Mid-18th Century milestone in Broughton.
The symbol on top reveals it to be a point
where Ordnance Surveyors have
measured altitude above sea level
(© Trish Steel CC2.0)
After passing under the M6 motorway, the race reaches Broughton - and what a pleasure it is to find such a normal place, its only claims to fame being that it has the oldest primary school in Britain (established in 1590) and that it's the only parish in the country to have fire, ambulance and police stations within its boundaries. The race travels straight through a crossroads controlled by traffic lights in the town and onto Woodplumpton Lane, turning a medium 90 degree right 0.49km later and a medium 90 degree left 0.22km after that.

A bridge carries the road over the railway, then it arrives at Woodplumpton after 107.1km, missing the larger part of the village as it skirts around the northern side by continuing along the B5269. Local weirdness reappears here, because the village churchyard includes the grave of one Meg Shelton - otherwise known as "The Fylde Hag." Said to have had the ability to change into animal shape at will, she was apparently buried vertically with head pointing downwards and her grave covered by a heavy boulder after she refused to stay in it! She could also transform inanimate objects into apparently living creatures, as when she turned a bucket into a goose to disguise the fact that she was stealing milk - the farmer only caught her out when he saw milk dripping from the goose's beak and kicked it, at which point it turned back into a bucket.

After turning right at a T-junction near the village, the peloton come to a wide left bend followed by a narrow bridge over the Lancaster Ship Canal 0.16km later. The first 0.94km of the road into Inskip is straight, but there are several difficult bends and corners in the remaining stretch. The first is a medium right/left Z-bend at the junction with School Lane, followed by a medium-tight 90 degree left corner near a farm 0.22km - this one being made potentially more hazardous by overhanging trees. A tighter 90 degree right lies 0.1km ahead, leading into a 0.4km straight, then a medium left and a medium 90 degree right 77m later. Another medium left 0.27km further along leads to a 0.35km straight, then a medium right. All of these corners are made more hazardous due to their location on arable land, making diesel spills and slurry a possibility. The remaining road into Inskip is straightforward with one simple bend right before the village.

Inskip radio masts, now disused (© Keith Wright CC2.0)
Just south-west of Inskip are four 183m radio masts, once used to send and receive communications between submarines and the Royal Navy who owned the site (officially classified as HMS - "Her Majesty's Ship" - Nightjar) up until 2010. A medium 90 degree right lies 1.4km after the village, followed by a much tighter 90 degree left 0.2km later and a tight right leading into a gentle left-hand bend at Crossmoor. Having passed by a lane on the left, the race reaches another tight right-hander 0.4km later, then a tight 90 degree left 40m ahead to join Lodge Lane. A medium-difficulty left/right Z-bend lies 0.4km futher on before the road straightens out and arrives at Elswick, 116.1km from the start (53°50'17.61"N 2°52'48.63"W). The route passes straight through the village before coming to a pair of 90 degree bends, right/left, at the end and heading toward Thistleton, coming to a very tight 100 degree right at a T-junction 1.47km after Elswick and a T-junction with the A585 0.56km later. Turning right, the peloton cover a very short section before turning left and rejoining the B5269 81m ahead and, having turned right at the next junction, arriving at Singleton after 1.4km.

Poulton-le-Fylde market square. The stone "bench" is in
fact a fish slab, from which fresh fish was sold and the ball-
topped stone pillar is a whipping post, to which petty
criminals were tied before being lashed. Just out of shot
are the stocks (© Alexander P Kapp CC2.0)
The race turns right at a mini roundabout in the village, passing onto Lodge Lane leading north into the countryside - the first part has overhanging trees and thus could be slippery, but the road is wide and good quality. It joins the A566 after 1.36km at a junction in Little Singleton, the peloton travelling straight ahead - there's a small traffic island in the middle of the junction, positioned where it could form an obstacle for riders on the right of the pack if they attempt to get through en masse, but it shouldn't cause problems if the main group has spread out a little by this time (this, meanwhile, is unlikely on a stage such as this one). At a large roundabout north of Poulton-le-Fylde. This town, home to nearly 20,000 people has been inhabited for some 120 centuries, as made evident by the discovery of worked antler artifacts carbon dated to 10,000 BCE, had an unusual tradition in which the wealthy buried dead family members at night following a torch-lit procession through the streets - it died out in 1810 after the wind blew sparks from the torches and set fire to an entire row of buildings along the market square, destroying them. The riders take the second exit off the roundabout, the route to the left of the centre being the easiest and - marginally - shortest.

No.712, a double-decker tram at Blackpool
At a very similarly-sized roundabout 2km along Amounderness Way, the race takes the third exit (or second, for those who prefer to tackle it by taking the slightly shorter right path around the centre), continuing straight ahead to the next roundabout. At this one, on the very edge of Cleveleys and surrounded to the north and east by Thornton, the peloton take the second exit, turning a slight left into the town and towards the coast. 1.1km later, the arrive at a diffiicult left turn onto Crescent East - the corner itself isn't especially tight or wide, but Crescent East is separated from the parallel Crescent West by a central strip which could easily catch out any rider who takes the turn too fast to avoid it. They'll also need to exercise caution to avoid the tramlines, Blackpool being one of the very few places in Britain to retain an functioning tram network: now featuring 18km of tracks, construction began in 1885 - making it one of the first in the world and, today, one of the oldest still in operation. It's also one of a very small number around the world to use double-decker trams.

The Miners' Home (© Tom Richardson CC2.0)
After 0.8km, Crescent East becomes Kelso Avenue which in turn becomes Queen's Promenade as it emerges from the buildings at Anchorsholme Park before joining the seafront and continuing south past the Norbreck Castle Hotel - really not Blackpool's most attractive - and the grand Miners' Home, once a convalescent home for elderly, sick or injured miners since converted into highly-sought-after apartments. The race is now on The Promenade, the final section of the stage.

The tramlines run along their own fenced-off strip parallel to the road here, meaning they no longer pose any danger as the race arrives at North Pier and enters the famous Golden Mile - actually seven miles (11.27km) - and Britain's first seaside resort, having grown up to provide for the needs first for the wealthy and fashionable socialites of the 18th Century who came here to "take the cure" and, later, for the vast numbers of workers who flocked here from the industrial towns and mills of North-Eastern England in the latter part of the 19th Century. From here, it's a final flat, straight, high-speed sprint over 300m to the finish line at the Tower (53°48'56.98"N 3° 3'21.40"W).

Blackpool Tower (© Steve F CC2.0)
Grade 1 listed, 158m tall Blackpool Tower cost £290,000 to build in the last decade of the 19th Century with £2000 personally donated by Mayor John Bickerstaffe who had originally suggested the project after being inspired by the Eiffel Tower during a visit to Paris. Though the two towers appear superficially similar, they're actually completely different in many ways - for a start, the French tower is 166m taller and free-standing, whereas Blackpool's tower is anchored to a base disguised by a building occupied by the Tower Circus. Consisting of 2,993,000kg of metal and around 5,000,000 bricks, it was designed so that were it to ever fall it would fall into the sea rather than onto the dense town behind and to either side of it. Three years after completion, the top caught fire and could be seen from 80km away. Originally, the metal was not protected by paint and the structure became so badly corroded that by 1921 it looked as though it might have to be demolished. However, recognising its enormous ability to attract tourists, it was decided to save it and over the next three years all the metalwork was painstakingly replaced piece by piece.

Predictions: Well, we did fancy Jens Voigt for this stage - it looks like the sort of parcours that can be won by attacking hard all the way, and that's what Jens does best. However, as we all know, bad fortune struck LeopardTrek once again in Stage 1 and Jens was forced to abandon. Mark Cavendish was always going to be a favourite today - the course is reasonably flat for much of its length and end with a flat, straight sprint that suits the HTC-Highroad lead-out down to the ground. But, Cav has a very powerful enemy for today - Nature. With Hurricane Katia showing off out in the Atlantic, north and west Britain is being battered by strong winds. Heading up to the finish line, these are going to form blasting crosswinds smashing into the race from the right. That's enough to mess up even the most well-rehearsed tactics.

Weather: This is the Lake District. How do you think all those deep glacial valleys became full of water? The region has some of the highest average rainfall anywhere in Europe - it's looking at present like the wide band of rain expected to cross the region early in the morning will be followed by a dry period, but accurate forecasting in this part of the world is difficult even without a hurricane complicating matters. Temperatures will rise no higher than 17C and should fall no lower than 14C - but with the wind (and rain, if it does), it'll feel much colder. The wind is likely to cause problems - while there is no Met Office weather warning for the area currently, there's an official Yellow Alert (risk of disruption to transport and the possibility of damage to trees and stuctures) in place for Northern Ireland, Scotland and parts of Wales (all of which surround NW England)  for the entire of Monday. At present, there are no plans to cancel the stage.

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Don't assume Longo guilt

Longo has competed in seven
Olympic Games
Jeannie Longo, the legendary French champion who at the age of 52 frequently competes against cyclists not even born when she first rode in the Olympic Games, is in trouble following three questionable incidents around doping control in the last year.

According to the Fédération Française de Cyclisme, Longo twice gave insufficient details as to her whereabouts this year and missed one test entirely in June when anti-doping officials arrived at a hotel at which she had listed herself as staying, but the Haute-Savoie cyclist was not there and could not be contacted - however, Longo, known for living a somewhat unusual lifestyle, famously does not own either a computer or a mobile telephone.

Chances are there'll be those who say that since Longo comes from a different generation of cyclists - not just the one that came before today's, but the one before that - she deserves to be cut some slack. After all, for much of her career doping was so prevalent in the sport that it was virtually accepted and, often, hardly even hidden. We don't think that should be the case. Much as we admire Longo, who has been World Champion 13 times and French Champion an incredible 59 times, cycling is always more important than one cyclist and, now that it's clawed its way back to something approaching respectability after a series of high-profile scandals saw all-important sponsors leaving in droves for fear of being associated with drugs and in doing so almost killing the sport, even a personality as towering as Longo must be barred from competition if she can be shown to be guilty of doping.

However, Longo is not as other cyclists. Her case shows why automatic suspension - she could be barred from anything between three months to two years, a longer ban likely ending her career - is proof that one rule cannot be applied to all cyclists. It may work for the vast majority, who have grown up with portable computers, mobile phones, wi-fi and 24 hour access to the Internet, but it doesn't work for the semi-reclusive Longo and in her case failure to attend doping control should not automatically be seen as suspicious.

Voigt to stay with Schlecks

(CC3.0)
Luxembourg's RTL - generally fairly trustworthy as far as media networks go - is reporting this morning that the German cyclist Jens Voigt of LeopardTrek will remain with Frank and Andy Schleck next season.

It was confirmed earlier this week, the rumour mill having gone into overdrive the week previously, that LeopardTrek will merge with the older Radioshack team next year - however, this has caused controversy as many riders and team officials claim they were left completely in the dark over the plans. As both teams currently have full rosters and the UCI limits every ProTeam to 30 riders, several riders are going to have to be released and search for new contracts.

At 39 years old, Voigt's aggressive riding technique combined with his forthright, articulate and amiable style off the bike has led to him becoming one of the most popular riders among fans. Meanwhile, the Schlecks, while also extremely popular for the affable natures and undoubted skills, are frequently said (including by their own father, ex-professional Johny Schleck) to be "too nice" and to lack the aggression required to win major stage races such as the Tour de France. As the partnership is already proven, new team boss Johan Bruyneel would presumably wish to encourage it to continue.

Thursday, 8 September 2011

Vuelta a España - Stage 19 Preview

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The Basque flag
It's been more than three decades, but finally the Vuelta returns to the Basque Country - home of the Euskaltel-Euskadi team which is partially sponsored by the autonomous Basque government and of Movistar. Love of cycling is in the blood of the Basques: Iban Mayo, Haimar Zubeldia, David Etxebarria and the great Miguel Indurain are all from Euskadi, the name of the country in the unique Basque language.

The beautiful landscape of Euskadi
Basque nationalism has a long history, having emerged as a political movement during the 19th Century. However, the Spanish government chose to ignore the region's calls for self-determination. The combination of political disenfranchisement and leftist opposition to Franco's fascist regime (which, it should be remembered, used techniques no better than those used by terrorist groups, including torture and murder of unarmed civilians) led quickly to the formation of groups willing to use violence in an effort to get their message across. The most infamous of those groups is, of course, Euskadi Ta Askatasuna, "Basque Homeland and Freedom." Formed in 1959 and deemed an illegal terrorist organisation by the European Union and United States, ETA's gudariak (Basque word for "warriors") waged a fierce war against the state and left a trail of death and destruction in their wake - at least 820 people, including 340 civilians (some of them children) have been killed by the group since it began growing strong towards the end of the 1960s. ETA - along with other groups such as Iparretarrak ("The Northerners"), Komando Autonomo Antikapitalistak ("Autonomous Anti-capitalist Commandos") and Kale Borroka ("Street Fighting," a loosely-organised group of leftist activists) - began to step up its activities in the late 1970s, with a particularly bloody year in 1980 when it was responsible for 92 killings, making it simply too dangerous to hold cycling events in the region.

Bilbao - largest city in Euskadi and one of Europe's finest
This was shown to be the case in 1992, when a car bomb expolded in an underground car park the day before the Tour de France was due to arrive, causing many of the riders to consider leaving the race (they were subsequently persuaded to continue). Then, in 2007, the Tour was directly attacked - two small bombs using ammonal, which ETA had the ability to manufacture and had used on numerous occasions, were detonated at the side of the road shortly after the Caravan had passed. Though the blasts were small and nobody was injured, investigation showed that the bombs had used 0.5-1kg of the explosive and had been disguised as discarded plastic food boxes, presumably with the intention of maiming spectators - the first ETA attack since a ceasefire declared in March of the previous year, not the first time the group had broken a declaration of peace. A third ceasefire was announced in September 2010, with the organisation stating that it intended to use peaceful, democratic means in its ongoing fight to achieve total independence from the Spanish government and, ideally, a restoration of Euskal Herria, the Greater Basque Country which includes territory in France. In January 2011, the ceasefire was declared permanent and, so far, it appears that ETA really have turned their backs on violence - thus, Unipublic have decided that the situation permits the Vuelta to return to the beautiful region. The Basque people will doubtless be overjoyed to see one of the greatest events in their most beloved sport once again take place in their nation. Expect a party!

Panoramic view of Santona and the National Park (CC2.5)
The stage begins with the usual neutral zone starting on the Calle Castrejón El Arenai in Noja, right next to the beach and at almost the same place Stage 18 drew to an end, and heads east for 60m to a roundabout and a right turn onto the Av. de los Ris which the peloton will follow for 1.24km before turning left onto the Av. de Santander. This will lead east to the Plaza Noja, with 90 degree left and right turns to follow for the Av. de Cantabria, joining with the Av. de Zent Mar at a roundabout. As the road curves and comes to the beach, it becomes the Paseo Trengandín leading out of town and becoming the CA-147. Having reached Helgueras, the road becomes known as the Paseo de Brusco for 0.49km section up to a roundabout where the route turns right onto what the race itinerary calls the Calle de las Igueras - our maps say it's the Calle de las Helgueras which, in view of the village's name, is more likely. Having followed this road for around 2km, the race reaches a junction with the CA-141 and turns left, reaching the end of the neutral zone 0.73km along the road at Copillo. Cerecedas is the first town, contiguous with Argoños where the peloton turn left at a roundabout to keep going along the CA-141, turning right at the next roundabout to follow the road over a bridge and past Berria before passing along a causeway through marshland (a National Park) into Santoña.

Fuerte de San Martin
Archaeology has shown that Santoña has been inhabited since Palaeolithic times with many discoveries dating from that period being found in the town and nearby, but it was under the Romans that it first became an important town - artifacts left by them, including a valuable hoard of coins unearthed at the Iglesia de Santa María de Puerto, suggest that it was a major settlement by the 1st Century. In common with most European towns, it declined following the demise of the Empire and by the Middle Ages was a small community centred on a monastery; the abbot - one Paterno - began a program very unusual for the day to reforest the area in 1038. From the 15th Century, the town began to grow very wealthy due to the development of a ship building industry. A boom period came in the early part of the 18th Century when the shipyards were given Royal status and a contract to build fifteen ships for the Spanish Navy. Ships are no longer built here, but the port and docks remain busy due to the extremely productive fishing fleet and canning plants. Santoña has much to offer the visitor, those who can tolerate the smell of the fish canneries, at any rate - including the church mentioned above, said to have been established by St. James in 37 CE but in fact of 13th Century construction, once part of the monastery; the 18th Century Palacio de Chiloeches which later served as a military hospital and a prison, nowadays back in private ownership but sadly in a poor state and far removed from its former grandeur; three forts (Fuerte de San Carlos, Fuerte de San Martin and Fuerte de Napoleón) and a monument to Luis Carrero Blanco - victim of an ETA assassination in 1973 and, as president of the ruling Falange and most likely figure to continue the fascist Franco regime following Franco's death, arguably no great loss to the world.

Palacio de Condestables
The Vuelta enters the town along the Calle de la Alameda, turning right at a roundabout topped with a sculpture of a human figure and moving onto the Calle de las Manzanedo and coming to another roundabout after 158m. Turning right again, the race enters the Calle de Baldomero Villegas and turns a 90 degree right onto the Calle de Marismas de Bengoa; then 90 degrees right again for the Carretera de Cicero - also known as the CA-241 - making its way via a series of bridges and causeways across the wide marshes and, 10.8km from the start of the race, dry land at a junction with the N-634. The parcours turns left and heads into Cicero, then left past a roundabout towards Treto and across a wide bridge for Colindres - this route offers excellent views of the new suspension bridge just to the south. The race moves into town along the Calle de la Mar, contiguous with the Calles de Sainz Ezquerra, de la Magdalena and Ramón Pelayo. The latter takes the race to a pair of roundabouts on the edge of town - the left route about the first is the better option as it will line up the riders for an easy route about the second and the correct exit along the N-634. Colindres is a town split into two: Colindres de arriba is the older part with more to interest the tourist and Colindres de abajo is the modern part, where many of the residents work.

Casa de Musica
The majority of people would list Palacio del Condestable as the finest building in Colindres, despite having lain in ruins ever since an attack by French pirates in 1639; but for us the modernist Casa de Musica is by far the better structure.

Laredo is reached 15.7km from the start and hosts the first of the stage's two intermediate sprints beginning on the Calle del Duque de la Ahumada as it heads into the Plaza Capuchinos followed by the Plaza de la Constitución which is contiguous with the Calles de Revellón and del Emperador. At the end, the road suddenly takes a 180 degree bend and becomes the Calle de las Escalerillas and taking in a sweeping left before a tight hairpin. Gentle right and left bends lead south-west to a junction with the A-8 motorway with the race turning right to continue on the N-634 and along a straight 1.24km stretch into Tarrueza. More unchallenging bends lead to Liendo and Iseca Vieja before the race reaches a pair of very wide 180 degree bends, one left and one right to form a giant S - while the bends aren't a problem, the road does climb quite steeply here and rises almost 60m in 0.64km: a gradient of just over 10%. It continues to rise - more gently now - into the forest and heading south-east to the A-8, then swooping north-east before an easy 90 degree right carries the peloton into a descent and across a fly-over. Having passed by a junction on the left, the road enters a twisty section featuring a medium 90 degree right, medium 90 degree left, gentle right before a 130m straight, then a tight 90 degree left, tight 110 degree right and and a final medium 90 degree left before leaving the forest behind. After following the river for a short way it turns an easy 90 degree left onto a high, slightly curving bridge and turns 90 degrees right onto the CA-151 to head through more forest to Rioseco 33km from the start.

Iglesia de San Vicente, Rioseco (from Sobre Cantabria)
This Rioseco, rather confusingly one of three villages in Cantabria and seven throughout Spain to bear the name, is famous for the 16th Century Iglesia de San Vicente de la Maza, considered to be one of the most beautiful churches in the province. Surrounded on all sides by trees, only the tower and upper part of the roof can be seen from a distance but it's well worth a closer look. Remaining ont he same road, the peloton will pass by the church before reaching Guriezo where they'll turn left at the roundabout for the CA-520. The first climb - Category 3 Puerto de la Granja with 370m of climbing in 7km - begins at this point.

A tight 90 degree right and medium-tight left at Francos lead into a short descent along the straight road to Balbacienta, the road sweeping right to avoid the village as the climb really begins. A 90 degree left lies just beyond the last house on the left, followed by an equally technical right 160m ahead. The first hairpin, a left, comes three-quarters of a kilometre later. A right comes 210m after that, then a left 170m after that and a final right 110m later. All of them are wide and not especially steep, making it a relatively unchallenging section. An easy left/right Z-bend follows, then the race passes straight across two crossroads either side of copse before heading into forest with a medium 90 degree right coming soon afterwards. Medium left/right bends follow before a short straight leading to a medium right/left combination and a straight section up to the next hairpin, another wide one which shouldn't prove testing. The altitude reaches 300m just beyond before a gentle left/right Z-bend. A gentle right as we leave the forest leads us to summit, 42km from the start and 390m above sea level according to the official Vuelta statistics (our ESA statistics reckon it's nearly 20m lower than that, but ho hum).

The first descending hairpin comes almost immediately and, other than slight caution needed to avoid gravel possibly spread over the road surface, shouldn't be hazardous unless it's raining when all hairpins become hazardous. Two sweeping left-handers carry the peloton down to the second hairpin, a left. This one is an entirely different beast altogether; tighter, steeper and right at the foot of a vertical rockface that might not only deposit gravel on the road but could also very painfully stop any rider who enters the bend too quickly for his brakes to prevent it. The third hairpin, 330m later is no challenge at all; then the road descends gently around easy bends to Montealegre, rounding a medium 180 degree bend as it reaches the village. It travels right through, becoming almost perfectly straight for 1.1km until a sweeping left leads directly into a medium 90 degree right and onto the approach towards Sámano.

Painted palm print, Cueva de la Lastrilla
(from Gobierno de Cantabria)
Sámano is another town in two halves. The north-eastern part is largely residential and almost contiguous with much larger Brazomar that will, eventually, swallow the town up; the south-western is mixed, increasingly industrial towards the edge of town. In the middle, the fields reach right to the sides of the road as though the town wears a belt - the Vuelta will approach from the west and travel through this central section before turning right and traveling onto the CA-522, leaving the town without seeing much of it. Today, the houses and industrial units are arranged along grid patterns, giving the place a modern look, but it's been inhabited for a very long time - there are palaeolithic rock paintings, especially in the Cueva de la Lastrilla, to attest to this. When the race reaches the roundabout south of the town, the peloton turn right and after a straight section pass through a 90 degree left, 180 degree right and 90 degree left as they enter Santullan. Having reached the CA-250, they turn right.

Category 3 Puerto de las Muñecas, with 290m of climbing in 4.9km, begins 54.6km from the start. A straight section of around 1.8km leads into Otanes, a village stretched out for 2km along the road. At the south-eastern end we pass by a junction with the CA-523 and head into the forest which covers the hill the race is about to climb. A medium right and left almost immediately brings us to a clearing with two buildings, then 1km later the road is crossed by a footbridge followed by a medium right, an easy left and an easy right. A medium-tight right lies 0.43km ahead, the altitude reaching 200m at the apex of the bend before dropping slightly and then climbing more steeply. Another medium 90 degree left 0.29m ahead precedes a sweeping right leading into a straight that reaches 300m at the far end before a 180 degree right. A tight left at the end of the next clearing leads into a medium left, then a tight right and the 390m summit in a clearing where two roads join from either side with 59.5km ridden so far. From this point, the road becomes the BI-3601.

Having been kept away by the violence
of ETA and other armed groups, the
Vuelta returns to the Basque Country
after 33 years.
The descent isn't particularly challenging, but as ever in forested regions bends may be slippery especially after rain - and coming off the road is always more dangerous when there are trees to hit, as was the case when Vinokourov crashed out of the Tour de France this year. There's a tight left/right Z-bend 0.3km from the summit, then an easy right followed by a tight 110 degree left and 180 degree right into Las Muñecas. A 90 degree right lies just beyond the village, leading into a tight right-hand hairpin and left-right Z-bend a short way ahead. A 90 degree right 0.3km precedes a very tight left-right Z-bend and 90 degree left immediately afterwards as the race passes back out into open countryside. A slight left and slight right take the peloton along the BI-3601 to Riojadillo before turning a sharp left at the end of the town to take the BI-2701; then right after 160m onto the BI-3261 leading into forest where it splits to become the BI-3634 and BI-3631, with the route taking the latter.

After an initial straight section through the trees, the road enters a gentle right followed by a sharper right; then reaches a section with tight ascending hairpins leading into San Esteban. The first is a tight left, not steep; the second, after 150m, tight right, not steep; third, after 290m, tight left, not steep; fourth, after 240m, medium right, not steep. A straight section leads into a gentle 90 degree left leads into a sweeping 120 degree right followed by a gentle left, then a straight up to sweeping left-right-left bends carrying the road back into forest. Once out of the trees, to continue on the same road requires turning a 180 degree left, leading to a 180 degree right and then following a wide bend into Txabarri (note the unmistakably Euskara place-names beginning to appear) before the BI-3634 joins from the right. However, if we ignore the 180 degree bend and continue straight ahead, we round a 90 degree left and head past Larrea before joining the BI-3631 a little further on. The first route is 2.4km, the second 2.13km - we suspect that, in view of the Vuelta's notoriously inaccurate road book itineraries, the second will prove to be the one taken. Just past the second junction, the road turns sharply left and then right for no apparent reason other than to add a little technicality to what would otherwise be a straight and unchallenging section.

Güeñes
A 90 degree left leads into a twisty section with a wide 180 degree right-hander leading into a medium right descending hairpin, not steep. Another tight left-right bend without any obvious reason for its existence could prove hazardous to anyone who enters it too quickly, since it would be easy to leave the road and end up among the trees on the apex. Finally, a 1.46km straight section leads along the valley floor towards Güeñes, 77.7km from the start of the race.

Güeñes forms part of a chain consisting of four towns - Zalla, Aranguren, Güeñes, Sologutxi - that have grown and become contiguous, forming an unbroken urban area almost 6km east to west but only 1.3km north to south at its deepest point. It's the largest town we've seen on this stage for some time and has a fine 16th Century church, Iglesia de Santa Maria. There is also an atmospheric ruined mansion, now in a state from which it could probably never be restored to its lost former glory. One of the oldest structures in the town is the Caserío Errekalde, a superb example of the gabled farmhouses traditional to the region in which two stone barn-like sections are joined by half-timbered living quarters occupying the first and second floors in between, leaving an open area below for the storage of hay (for images, click here). Once, it was also the site of the wonderfully-named Palacio de las Brujas - the Palace of the Witches - but it appears that this building vanished some time after 1848 when it was last recorded. The race enters town on the Enkarterri Kalea (Calle de Enkarterri), then turns left just past the town hall onto the Estarte Kalea which runs into the Lambarri Kalea and Ibarguen Kalea, with numerous speed humps along the way. Lambarri Kallea becomes the Artxube Kallea near Goikouria as a road joins from the right, then becomes the Mulikar Kalea as it approaches Sodupe. As we pass the town by, the road changes its name again and becomes the Lorgi Kalea, then the Olarbarrietta Kalea as it heads back into the countryside.

Don Diego López de Haro,
founder of Bilbao
The route follows the BI-3651 past La Quadra (La Cuadra in the road book, which uses Spanish names rather than Euskara) and over numerous speed humps as we travel by Zaramillo and Abuio, reaching the feeding station after 87.8km from the start. 1.9km after Alonsotegi, the road becomes the BI-3742 with several speed humps and level crossing as it enters Bilbao and joins the N-634, turning right at a roundabout to pass along it. A left leads onto the Gurtubai Kalea, then the Calle de Rafael Moreno and the San Mamés football ground; then a right leads onto the Calle de Felipe Serrate. At the end, the peloton turn left onto the Av. de Sabino Arana and need to be cautious of the tram lines as they approach the Monumento al Sagrado Corazón. Turning left onto the twin roundabouts and again avoiding the tram lines, the race takes the second exit to cross the wide Puente Euskalduna bridge which curves to the left as it approaches the opposite bank and joins the Euskalduna Zubia. At the next roundabout, the riders will take the first exit on the right and head onto the Morgan Kalea, progressing along the river until reaching the Paseo Campo de Volantínand up to another roundabout. Left carries them onto the Zumulakarregi Etorbidea, swooping around wide bends to a large complex junction with the Maurice Ravel Etorbidea. Right continues on the N-634, heading through a tunnel and out of the city to Galdakao 109.1km from the start of the race. The race turns left onto the Camino de Aperribai, left again onto the Camino de Ergoien and begins the Category 2 Alto El Vivero with 360m of climbing in 4.3km after 109.9km.

Palacio Chávarri, seat of the Civil Government
Having passed underneath the A-8 motorway, the road turns sharply right and then 90 degrees left into a short straight before another 90 degree left. The altitude reaches 200m just as the race enters forest, reaching a steep section as it rounds a sweeping left-hand bend before a very short slight descent into a 90 degree right bend at the end of the curve and reaches 300m shortly afterwards. It becomes steeper again as we pass Ganguren and hits the 410m summit just as the peloton reach the junction with the BI-3732 and turn left to head back into Bilbao. The descent is relatively simple, though a 90 degree right 0.7km after the junction could prove hazardous especially during or after rain. The long straight to follow, down to Aranoltzo San Antolin, is likely to encourage high speeds. After passing across a fly-over over the BI-631, the route turns left onto the BI-3741and then right onto the BI-631 leading into Bilbao and towards the Zumulakarregi Etorbidea and into the heart of the city. The second intermediate sprint takes place along the Alameda Recalde before the peloton turn right at the Plaza de Federico Moyua and onto the Gran Vía Don Diego López de Haro, at the end arriving once more at the Sagrado Corazón. They once again cross the Puente Euskalduna, embarking on a second circuit up and over Alto El Vivero, following the same route. Once back in the city, the race crosses the Puente de los Príncipes de España to pass again along the Alameda Recalde for 0.35km, passing by the stupendously good modernist Basque Health Department Offices, before turning right again at the Plaza Don Federico Moyua onto the Gran Vía Don Diego López de Haro for a final 0.65 straight sprint to the finish line after 158.5km.

Estación Bilbao-Concordia
As we said earlier, Bilbao is not just the finest city on Euskadi - it's one of the finest in Europe and the world. There is evidence of human inhabitation of the locale dating back to around 4000 BCE, but the city dates only from the beginning of the 14th Century; having been established by Diego López V of Haro on the 15th of June 1300. López, afforded certain legal powers in his status as Lord of Biscay, guaranteed his new city would enjoy a successful beginning by granting it certain rights and advantageous trading conditions; ensuring that his city grew rapidly in both size and importance. Two centuries later, in 1511, Bilbao was granted jurisdiction over the estuary that now shares its name, an excellent natural harbour that it began to develop and soon made one of the most important - and profitable - ports in Spain. By 1530, it was home to 65,000 people and less than a hundred years it became the regional capital. However, the following centuries saw the population fall dramatically; largely as a result of the four plague outbreaks between 1500 and 1600.

Torre Iberdrola. Bilbao does not rely on past
glories and is ready to meet an even more
glorious future
The city weathered the economic chaos that affected virtually everywhere else in the country during the 17th Century due to the presence of iron ore deposits in the region and its well-established trading links with the Netherlands and Britain. It continued to grow during the 18th and 19th Centuries, soon filling the geographical space between the higher land to the south-west and north-east and beginning to spread along the valleys occupied by the nearby villages it has now swallowed up. It survived no less than three sieges during the Carlist Wars and increased its population by 69,000 people during the last two decades of that century. As might be expected from the Marxist-Leninist leanings of ETA and other separatist groups, the region supported the left during the Civil War and suffered heavy bombing at the hands of both the Nationalists and their German Nazi supporters. It was besieged in 1937 and all bridges across the estuary were destroyed. The city's industries began to be developed once again after Falange had taken power, especially the iron ore mines which, as tends to be the case under fascist regimes, saw the working classes suffer greatly in the poorly-built and disease-ridden slums that grew up to house them - another powerful contributing factor in the decision of some to take up arms, plant bombs and commit bloody acts of violence.

We couldn't really have done this article without including a picture of one of the teams most loved by
fans and respected by opponents in the history of cycling, could we? Euskaltel-Euskadi have for many
years been home to some of the world's most talented riders. The sport would be far poorer without
the familiar orange phalanx in the peloton.
Following the fall of Falange, democratic elections were once again held in Spain and the Basques gave their support to left-wing nationalists. The Basque Country came into being as an autonomous region, with far-reaching rights to self-determination, in 1979 - just prior to industrial crisis caused by a combination of worldwide economic downturn, the gradual shift of European cities from industrial to service economies and ETA's decision to attack industrial targets. Yet Bilbao fared relatively well as the 1980s progressed, always managing to remain a few steps ahead of debilitating recession and by 1990 was well on its way to emerging as the modern and wealthy service city that it is today. This transition was helped enormously by the construction of the Guggenheim Museum, one of the most famous and iconic buildings in the world, in 1997 - this kick-started the so-called Guggenheim Effect in which cities lucky enough to have such a museum experience rapid gentrification and a sudden, pronounced up-turn in tourism. Today, the museum is visited by around one million people each year - many of them guests in the city, injecting their cash into the local economy. Today, with its healthy economy and multicultural population standing at around 350,000, Bilbao - and, with it, Euskadi - looks set to enjoy far greater growth during the coming decades than most other cities on the Iberian Peninsula. It may well be the case that the inhabitants of the Basque regions over the border in France look upon this success and begin to press their own government for the right to join them, leading to the eventual reappearance of Euskal Herria as a political and geographic entity.

The Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao - one of the most beautiful and iconic buildings in the world (CC3.0)
Predictions: This is it now - just today and tomorrow for the top riders to establish domination over the race. If they fail, it's going to be a vicious dogfight all the way through Madrid to the last lap about the Plaza de Cibeles, and after all this way nobody wants that. Sky have already said that they plan to attack all the way through the Basque Country, especially now that they find themselves with a potential favourite to win the General Classification - it's not who they thought it'd be, but a Froome's as good as a Wiggins (and there's till an outside change Wiggo could win, but he'd have to ride like the devil to pull that one off).

However, since this is the first time the Basque people's favourite sporting event has been seen on their soil for so long, it would seem highly likely that we can expect Euskaltel-Euskadi to pull out all the stops and go for a stage win. Fair play to them - they have our best wishes, even if it means the British-based team loses.

Weather: Warmer than it has been: 27C at the start line, then increasing gradually to a high of around 34C at Bilbao - more than enough to make extreme physical effort very uncomfortable indeed. A moderate headwind up to the 60km mark will be very unwelcome, especially over those first four climbs. The direction will remain the same but they'll become less strong towards the halfway point, then become gentle crosswinds for the remainder of the parcours. Once again, it's expected to be sunny with no rain over the entire route.

More Stage Previews: click here