Saturday 17 September 2011

Tour of Britain Stage 7


LeopardTrek's Madones look good on
television. In the flesh, they're beautiful
almost beyond words.
Ladies and gentlemen, we have seen the saddle that supports the posterior of Posthuma. We nearly got run over by the LeopardTrek bus. We have breathed air that mere seconds before was wafting through the main triangle of Geraint Thomas' Pinarello - and yea, it was sweetly-scented. We even nearly saw Mark Cavendish, but did not for fear that our mortal eyes might burn up, such is his radiance - and anyway, the crowds round the HTC-Highroad bus were about two hundred deep.

"Impressive! I haven't seen so many spectators for a bike race in UK since TourDeFrance2007. So much support! Thanks everyone for turning out" (@MarkCavendish, Twitter, 15:45 17.08.11) 
The first riders round the corner and head out into the neutral zone
Being based in Cambridge, it was the work of mere seconds for the Cyclopunk office to be shoved in a rucksack and prepared for a quick train jouney (approximately 35 minutes for the sum of £9.20 - honestly, how exactly are the government encouraging people to use public transport? Occasional Cyclopunk contributor Simon's Nissan Micra can do the same journey for half that cost) as we got ourselves down to Bury St. Edmunds for a look at the start of Stage 7 of this year's Tour of Britain.

Angel Hill, between the town's attractive centre and Abbeygate, all that remains of the once vast and enormously wealthy abbey which dominated west Suffolk in the middle ages, was packed with literally thousands of people. Many were cyclists but the majority were not, just people out to see the show. Children were all over the place, one looking absolutely made up to meet Ned Boulting, waving little Tour flags and apparently having a great time - hopefully, that's another generation of fans confirmed.

In black: Rapha-Condor-Sharp's Kristian House

One of the finest things about professional cycling is that fans can mingle with their heroes - there's none of the VIP area nonsense and burly security guards separating stars from proles as is normal in any other sporting event at this sort of level; this being very much the case here as we were freely able to wonder around the buses and team cars, getting up close to bikes worth more than the combined value of our internal organs (obviously not including our livers which are of virtually no value at all, except perhaps as replacements for Paris-Roubaix pavé).

Towards the left in the rainbow jersey: World Champion Thor Hushovd
Team Sky's amazing Pinarello Dogma 60.1 bikes
Pervading throughout was a certain sense of excitement based on the knowledge that this was going to be good, a sense that - as a veteran of countless Glastonburies and similar events - was instantly recognisable as Festival Atmosphere. That's something I've never felt at a British race before: SweetSpot have performed an absolutely excellent job of combining racing with entertainment, finding and applying the magic formula that the French have known for so long.

Chapeau!



Later in the day, we observed a Leopard(Trek tour bus) attempt
to crush a (Team Sky) Jaguar. Fortunately, a brave policeman
was on hand to prevent carnage.
The full album (80 images of the race, associated stuff and Bury St. Edmunds)

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Friday 16 September 2011

Tour of Britain - Stage 7 Guide

Guildhall at Lavenham, one of the many beautiful villages
along the Stage 7 route (© Andrew Dunn CC2.0)
Stage Map: click here
Stage Profile: click here
More Stage Guides: click here

While the vast majority of cycling fans favour the mountain stages for the harsh and challenging climbs, there'll always be those who love the high-speed thrills of a plain stage - and you don't get much plainer than this one, the second longest after the 207km Stage 1 of the newly-revived Tour in 2004 with no point on the parcours reaching higher than 100m sea level. However, whereas Norfolk is indeed flat (parts are actually below sea level), Suffolk rolls. The hills are small, but there are lots of them - it's a bit like riding across a scaled-up sheet of corrugated iron: at first, the climbs are hardly even noticed but there comes a time when the combined effect begins to take its toll.

We're bringing you a much shorter Stage Guide than usual today, ignoring the finer details of a relatively unchallenging parcours and concentrating on the various sights along the route - of which there are many. The reason for this is that we need to organise ourselves in preparation for a visit to the race, when we hope to be able to get some photographs and video of the start in Bury St. Edmunds which we'll then be uploading later in the day - probably at The Nutshell, Britain's smallest pub, a short walk from the start line.

Abbeygate on Angel Hill
East Anglia forms the easternmost part of the British Isles, some parts of the long coastline lying almost as far from London as they do from Amsterdam. In fact, the Dutch riders might feel rather at home here because there are cultural links going back over many centuries with Dutch engineers making the short journey across the North Sea to guide and assist in the East Anglian's efforts to drain the marshy land and put it to good productive use, then frequently settling here. Houses built in the traditionally Dutch style with Flemmish gables are a common sight throughout the region.

Though East Anglia is generally considered to include Essex, Cambridgeshire and parts of Lincolnshire and Hertfordshire, historically only Norfolk and Suffolk - and, following the marriage of Æðelþryð (known more commonly yet incorrectly as Etheldreda) to Tondberct, the Isle of Ely - were included, having been the two halves of the ancient Ēast Engla rīce, the Kingdom of the East Angles. Powerful during the 7th Century, the Kingdom was weakened by long, drawn-out conflict with a number of enemies including the Northumbrians and Mercians and repeated attacks by the Danes and Vikings, the Kingdom permanently lost independence in  917 and has been a part of England ever since.

The Abbey Ruins (© Tuli CC3.0)
Today, the race starts off in the city of Bury St. Edmunds. It's been a city for less than a century and retains the feel of a bustling market town, still essentially rural in nature despite the modern shops and population of some 35,000 people. It grew up around the abbey, once one of the richest in Britain and a place of pilgrimage as the site of a shrine containing the remains of the martyr king Edmund who was captured by a Danish Great Heathen Army who first beat him with clubs, then tied him to a tree and whipped him in an effort to force him to denounce Christ. When that failed, they began to fire arrows at him until, says Abbo of Fleury, "until he was all covered with their missiles as with bristles of a hedgehog, just as Sebastian was." Yet he would not submit, refusing to renounce his faith even as he died.

The Abbey went into a period of decline during the 13th Century, chiefly as a result of its own success - the monks had become somewhat decadent and a number of them were highly questionable characters. Now owning all of West Suffolk, it taxed literally everything and anything, earning the enmity of the local people. A fire in 1465 destroyed large parts, apparently interpreted as a stiffly-worded Divine warning because following the rebuild, complete by 1506, the Abbey seems to have been a far godlier place. Just 33 years later, under Henry VIII, the Dissolution brought a permanent end; the buildings subsequently being used as a quarry by the townspeople. Today, all that's left are weathered stumps, occasionally with recognisable sections of arches and worked masonry but for the most looking more like strange natural rock formations than anything man-made. Some of the larger parts have been incorporated into the structure of later buildings, striking structures which are highly reminiscent of Gaudi's signature Naturalist/Surrealist architecture.

James Moore, beside the Specialized
Venge of 1868.
Bury St. Edmunds was also the birthplace of James Moore in 1849. Don't know who he was? Well, he had quite a claim to fame - in 1868 he won the world's very first organised bicycle race, held in St. Cloud in the suburbs of Paris and a year later won the very first edition of the famous Paris-Rouen race, completing the 123km parcours in 10'45" and receiving a prize of 1000 gold francs after judges had made sure nobody had broken the race's cardinal rules that forbade all riders "to be pulled by a dog or use sails." Good thing too.

The race begins on Angel Hill at the Gatehouse, the sole surviving Abbey building, and makes its way past the cathedral on Crown Street as the neutral zone winds its way through the city and out to the start of the actual racing, 4km away on the A134 leading to Sicklesmere.

The stage's first climb, Cat 3 Lavenham Hill, begins after 11.7km and ends 0.5km later on the A1141 shortly before the peloton arrives at Lavenham, a village that was one of the wealthiest towns in England during the Middle Ages and as such has numerous very fine buildings dating from the period. The finest is undoubtedly the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, an excellent example of late perpendicular architecture. Inside, the church has some of the most imaginative misericords anywhere in Britain with an assortment of strange creatures combining varying degrees of human and animal parts.

The Ancient House, Ipswich (© Andrew Dunn CC2.0)
Hadleigh, at 26.6km, is in many ways very similar to Lavenham; having become wealthy due to its wool and textile industry prior to the Industrial Revolution when the great mills of the North took over and priced the East Anglians right out of the market. The village has many examples of pargeting, a decorative technique in which raised patterns are formed in the exterior plasterwork of buildings. While not unknown elsewhere, the practice is traditionally associated with East Anglia.

Ipswich forms a very large part of today's stage. Not only does a very complicated parcours require a list of complicated instructions for just a few kilometres in the roadbook, it's the site of a sprint and a climb. The sprint comes first, beginning after 44.3km on Portman Road; the climb - Cat 3 - takes place 1.8km later in Christchurch Park.

Situated on the Orwell Estuary, Ipswich was an important port from Roman times onwards, in those days forming an entry into the inland waterways which were the most convenient way to transport goods to towns and cities - including Cambridge - before the 20th Century, in addition to receiving a wide range of goods shipped across from Northern Europe. The Ancient House on Buttermarket is often hailed as the finest example of pargeting in the world, yet by the start of the 1980s the 15th Century structure had been so neglected that it was in imminent danger of collapse. A complete restoration, in which the entire building was virtually rebuilt, took place from 1984. Among the medieval buildings is a very surprising sight - the Willis Building, one of the first designed by Sir Norman Foster and a superb example of modern high-tech architecture.

Helmington Hall (© Chris Holifiend CC2.0)
One of the stage's undoubted highlights is Helmingham Hall, a beautiful moated manor house built in the late 15th/early 16th Centuries and owned by the Tollemache family ever since. The race is in fact routed through part of the Hall's famous 400 acre park, where deer may be seen grazing among the mixed woodland.

After 81.1km, the race reaches Eye - a small town with a lot of history. The peculiar name comes from the Old English word for an island, the town having been completely surrounded by rivers and marsh during Saxon times and before the drainage projects that dramatically altered the East Anglian landscape. Eye's cstle has lain in ruins ever since it fell to attackers in the latter half of the 13th Century. A Victorian house built next to it on the Norman motte has also become a ruin.

We cross over into Norfolk after 87.7km, arriving immediately at Diss. The town is built around a lake which, though the water is only 5.5m deep, is listed as one of the deepest natural inland lakes in the British Isles due to the 16m thick layer of mud on the bottom. The second sprint begins in the town as the riders hit 89.7km.

Kett's Oak, where Robert Kett rallied his protestors before
marching on Norwich; just outside Wymondham
More villages pass, with the feed station coming at the sign for Bunwell 103.8km from the start of the race. Soon, the peloton reach Wymondham, birthplace of the famous Robert Kett who, in the mid-16th Century, organised and led a small band of mostly-unarmed peasants that successfully besieged the City of Norwich in protest at the enclosure of the common land upon which the poor had enjoyed important rights such as that to gather fuel and graze livestock since time immemorial; preventing free access to the land and granting full ownership to a private individual (ie, a rich one). Kett and his little army took control of the city, and against all odds retained it for six full weeks until they were savagely crushed by the King's forces. Of course, rather than being hailed as a hero of the workers, Kett was hanged from the castle walls as an example to others to accept their grinding, cruel lot and not get ideas above their station.

Weston Longville, at 134.2km, was home in the 18th Century to James Woodeford, a parson and curate who lived an uneventful life but left a remarkable historical record of his time. His Diary of a Country Parson, compiled over four and a half decades, recounts everyday tales of the people that lived in the village, their concerns and habits good and bad in addition to his own liking for food and ale; thus permitting us an invaluable insight into the lives of the normal folk who have always made up the greater part of the population and yet have usually been completely omitted from conventional records. Bawdeswell, 16km further ahead, has a superb example of the Dutch-influenced architecture mentioned previously in the form of Bawdeswell Hall. Built in 1683, it became home to the Gurney family who made their fortune in banking. Elizabeth Fry, the famous prison reformer, was a Gurney and her image on the current British £5 note is based on a portrait of her that hangs in the Hall.

The race passes through a series of villages, all places of little importance but all of them attractive, then passes by West Newton along the B1440. 1.6km ahead, the peloton turns left onto Wolferton Road in the Sandringham Estate, crossing the finish line at the Visitor's Centre after a 600m final sprint.

Sandringham House (© Elwyn Thomas Roddick CC2.0)
Sandringham Estate covers 20,000 acres and is privately owned by the British Royal Family having been bought by Queen Victoria in 1862. The current House dates from same year, an earlier building having been demolished to make way for a new home for the future Edward VII and his bride Alexandra. Alexandra seems to have disliked it at first, but gradually the modern comforts designed to form an integral part of the building - such as the large bay windows, flushing toilets, gas lighting and shower - persuaded her that it was a desirable place to live; and in time she came to love it. The present Queen lists it as her favourite holiday home and she traditionally spends Christmas here with her family, as did several of her predecessors. Despite this, the rather unusual house combining a somewhat disorganised combination of various styles and influences is generally considered an example of an unsuccessful attempt at a Victorian country house by historians and architects.

Today, when the Royals have at last come to understand that they enjoy the privileges that they do purely as a result of an accident of birth and not due to some Divine will, large parts of the Estate have been opened to the public beginning with the Gardens in 1908, the Museum in 1930 and finally the House itself in 1977. A visitor's guide is available here.

Predictions: It's flat, the climbs are tiny and it ends with a straight final sprint. Anyone for Cavendish?

Weather: There's a chance of rain today and, while the parcours isn't demanding, there are sections which could become hazardous in the wet. Worthy of particular respect are those bends and corners near Felixstowe in Suffolk as the port is one of the busiest in the world and thousands of trucks set out along the nearby roads every day, increasing the likelihood of diesel spills enormously. Average windspeed will be about 24kph, enough for teams to form echelons on the flat, open sections that make up much of the stage when it forms a crosswind - however, it'll be a tailwind for much of the stage and could help generate some very high speeds. Temperatures will vary between 12 and 17C.

More Stage Guides: click here

Thursday 15 September 2011

Tour of Britain - Stage 6 Guide

Cheddar Gorge
Stage Map: click here
Stage Profile: click here
More Stage Guides: click here

In our ever-ongoing attempts to enlighten the general public to the wonder that is professional cycling, we've been singing the praises of the Tour of Britain down the pub. One common reaction - other than "blimey, are you still banging on about that?" - is "isn't that a bit boring? I mean, we haven't really got the mountains here, have we?"

Taunton's parish church, rising high
over the County Cricket Ground
They'll think again if they watch today's Stage 6, however. We may not have the high Alps or Alto de l'Angliru, but the two Cat 1 climbs in the latter half of the race are as challenging as anything the Tour has to offer - they just don't last as long, that's all, topping out at a little bit shy of 300m. The first one, at Cheddar Gorge, is a virtual wall for the first part, slackening only slightly halfway up; the second at Bristol Hill is a killer all the way up. And what's more, the teams need to ride more than 80km of the 146km total just to get there.

The race starts in Taunton, a village in Iron Age times and later a city of some importance during the Saxon era when it had its own mint and, from 710 CE, a castle (though it was destroyed just 12 years later to prevent it being taken over during a rebellion). It became the County Town of Somerset in the 15th Century, just in time to play an important role in the War of the Roses and the Cornish Uprising - it was here 1497 that the Cornish army surrendered, their leader Perkin Warbeck having panicked and fled when he heard the King's soldiers were on their way to the town. Many were executed as an example to others of what fate awaited those who dared oppose the monarch - perhaps giving rise to the various ghosts allegedly seen around the buildings.

Taunton Castle
There are traces of Saxon buildings at the present castle, though the 8th Century castle is believed to have been elsewhere, but the site wasn't fortified until the Normans built a stone fortress following the Conquest. In time, this was much altered and became a bishop's palace; then in 1138, Bishop of Winchester Henry of Blois began converting it back,, developing and adding to it until it became a mighty and important castle. Many more additions were made by his successors with the most newly-built structure in the complex being a schoolhouse dated to 1520. By 1600, the castle was a decaying ruin but it gained a new lease of life during the Civil War, being renovated and put back into use to become the only Parliamentarian stronghold in the South-West of England. The keep was demolished after the war, its sturdy base remaining today to give some idea of its imposing scale.

Today, Taunton enjoys Strategically Important Town or City status, permitting it to apply for large-scale funding to pay for regeneration and improvement projects. Part of this includes efforts to support sustainable living and transport, hence the new cycle paths granting off-road access to virtually all parts of the town. The Taunton Freeriders, a community mountain bike project, are working alongside the Forestry Commission to build world-class downhill and North Shore-style facilities nearby; a project that, going on the record of various similar projects around the country, will bring considerable income to the area.

As ever, the stage begins with a neutral zone to ensure all riders are rolling and ready to start racing without the mass pile-ups and carnage that tend to ensue if the entire peloton set off from a standing start. It begins on East Street near the County Walk shopping centre, right in the heart of town and near the corner with North Street (51° 0'51.97"N 3° 6'2.10"W), which the riders will travel up and over the bridge before turning right onto Station Road. They'll then turn right again and cross back over the river on Priory Bridge Road and head past the first roundabout to take the first exit at the next onto the Obridge Viaduct. When they reach the roundabout on Priorswood Road, they'll turn right and ride along the A3259 through Prior's Wood and Minkton Heathfield to the A38; then move onto the A361 towards the bridge over the M5 motorway. The racing begins 200m past the entrance to Durston Elms garage (51° 2'53.06"N  3° 1'26.47"W), having covered precisely 8km since East Street.

Gargoyle, North Curry (© Celiakozlowski CC3.0)
The first section of the race into West Lyng is unremarkable, being straight and flat on a wide modern road - the sort of place where nobody wants to try to start a breakaway attempt because it's just too easy for the peloton to catch them. After turning right onto New Road nothing much changes, though the road narrows slightly as it passes over a bridge 0.52km along the road and again 0.22km after the crossroads before the race arrives at North Curry - established by the Saxons, a royal manor in the 11th Century and a market village since the 13th, North Curry is a little-known beauty spot that boasts no fewer than 68 buildings listed for their architectural or historical significance.

The roadbook seems to take a little departure from reality at this point, instructing us to turn right at the T-junction on the A358 0.8km after North Curry. The only problem is, the A358 comes no closer than 3.86km - this, obviously, confuses matters somewhat. We think that the route planners arrived at the T-junction in the village and saw a sign directing traffic along Windmill Hill towards the A358. It then instructs us to turn left at a junction 100m ahead onto a road called Greenway, which proves entirely possible, and stating that we should arrive at a T-junction with the A378 2.3km later for a left turn towards Langport - this also turns out to be possible, so it looks as though we're on the right route.

Burton Pynsent Monument
(© Pam Goodey CC2.0)
Once on the A378, it's just 0.96km to the start of the stage's first climb, a Category 3 starting as the peloton pass a white building on the left of the road after 9.4km (51° 0'21.63"N 2°57'33.10"W) and finishes 1.6km later at the Green Shutters Nurseries (51° 0'14.09"N 2°56'13.76"W) just outside Fivehead having climbed approximately 50m. The race then enters what would have been a rather boring 4.2km transitional section were it not for the presence of Burton Pynsent House. T large and very grand stately home was built in 1765 for William Pitt, the leader of the British Government during the Seven Years' War and a highly unusual politician for his day (and our day, come to think of it) in that he secured his place in Parliament and political success not through familial connections but through hard work and his own skills. Remarkably, the current House is just one wing of the older original, the rest having been demolished in 1805. Nearby is the 43m tall Burton Pynsent Monument, designed by Capability Brown under the employment of Pitt as a monument to Sir William Pynsent. It cost the vast sum of £2000 to build in 1757.

The Hanging Chapel, Langport (© Pam Goodey CC2.0)
After 15.2km, the race arrives at Curry Rivel, taking the road straight through the town and on towards Langport, a small town that appears home to far more than 1100 people at first glance due to being formed of two parts which together give the impression of a far larger, sprawling place. The lower half, situated along the banks of the river, was the port; once a busy place in the days when Somerset's most navigable river was the preferred way to carry goods into the heart of the county. The tilting houses of Bow Street, their unusual angles cause by subsidence, are the highlight of the lower town. The upper half exists purely because of the topography's strategic value, being easily defended from attack.

The village has been settled and of some importance for a very long time, as made evident by the numerous Roman villas found nearby and the value placed upon it in the Domesday Book, which estimated the total worth of the village, manor and property to be a hefty £70, 10 shillings and sevenpence. Langport is famous as the site of an eponymous Battle in 1645, one of the most decisive of the Civil War as it saw the destruction of the last effective remnants of the Royalist army who attempted to escape by setting fire to the lower town, thus preventing the Parliamentarians from following. Visitors who appreciate ancient architecture should not miss the Hanging Chapel, built on the site of a gateway through the defensive earthworks in the days when Langport was a Saxon village. The present building was constructed at some point during the 13th Century. Having falled out of use as a chapel, it later housed a grammar school, then a Sunday school, then a museum, then an armoury and, since 1891, a masonic hall. The deep gouges in the stonework were caused by a truck in 1998.

Having entered the via Bow Bridge, the riders start the first of the day's sprint sections as they pass between a clock on the left and Langport Travel on the right (51° 2'15.37"N), the keep left to follow the road up into the town and around to the right until they arrive at the junction with the A372. The first 0.95km of the road as it passes through town is straight and unchallenging, but the very tight 90 degree bend at the end could prove hazardous especially during or after rain. There are two more difficult bends, a medium right after 0.9km and a medium-tight left 0.16km later on the way into Huish Episcopi (yes, a great name - one of our favourites) and Pibsbury before the road continues past Long Sutton and Catsgore. After 31.3km, just south of Kingsdon, the Tour arrives at a junction with the B3151 and turns a tight left to head along the road which is much narrower, thus potentially causing problems when the peloton have to slow and take turns finding a place in the new longer, thinner peloton that will be necessary to continue. There's another right bend, medium tightness, 0.64km after the race emerges from the woodland a short way on.

Somerton (© Liz Martin CC2.0)
After 34.4km, the race reaches Somerton, a small town with a name believed to be derived from either the Old English saemere tun or the Saxon sumer-tūn; both meaning "summer town" and suggesting, perhaps, a place known as a summer stopping point for earlier nomadic people. In time, the entire country became known as Sumortūnsǣte, "the people who live at and depend upon Sumortun" which eventually, having been Somersæte in 845, became Somerset. And we're sure you'll agree, there's no other cycling website where you learn things such as that.

The race keeps left as it passes the town, soon arriving at Littleton and then Compton Dundon. Reaching a five-way crossroads 1.9km later, the peloton take the second left onto Cockrod Road which will no doubt amuse some riders and fans. The remainder of the road stretches for 4.8km until it arrives at the A39 when the race turns left, passing south-west of Ashcott and arriving at a turn on the right after 2.3km leading onto Shapwick Hill. The drinks station begins 1km later.

4.2km ahead, a left turn leads onto Burtle Road and into Burtle. The road kinks slightly to the right, becoming Mark Road which remains almost perfectly straight for the following 1.44km, then turns a medium left before running straight for another 0.44km to a medium right. 0.25km later it enters a tighter right followed immediately by a narrow bridge - another potential hazard if riders pile up at the entrance.

St. Michael's, Blackford: the perfect English village church?
(© Dave Lowther CC2.0)
The route turns left onto Southwick Road 2.2km later, passing straight through a crossroads and coming to a narrow section 2km later. At a T-junction 0.5km later, it turns right onto the B3139 and passes through Mark Causeway, past a truck depot on the left - diesel spills here are less likely to cause crashes than usual due to straight road - before arriving at Mark 67.9km from the start of the race. There are two tight bends, a left with a right 0.13km later, just as the riders enter the village. After 70.8km, at the sign for Blackford, the feeding station starts.

At the centre of the village, the road bends sharply to the right and becomes New Road for 0.25km, then changes name again to Sexey's Road. Yes, really. 0.7km later, at the crossroads, the feeding station ends and the peloton continue straight ahead towards Wedmore, once home to Britain's first mental hospital; established by Doctor John Westover in the 17th Century. It appears that Dr. Westover had remarkable beliefs for his time as to how the mentally ill should be treated, dealing with them compassionately rather than condemning them to the harsh punishments and squalor found in asylums of the day. He also kept careful record of changes in their condition and illnesses suffered by the people in the village, a system that may well have allowed him to make valuable insights and perhaps achieve far more success in improving his patient's lives than other hospitals which were frequently little more than prisons.

Having followed Pilcorn Street through the town, the riders arrive at Church Street and pass by the grand Church of St. Mary where a hoard of 200 Saxon silver coins were discovered in 1853, arriving presently at a T-junction with the B3151 where they turn left onto Cheddar Road. They keep right as they pass through Cocklake (stop sniggering please, this isn't even nearly the funniest name so far on this stage) then arrive at the A371 after riding 80.8km since the start. Turning right, they pass into Cheddar and after 0.2km arrive at a left-turn leading onto another section of B3151 and take the second exit at the roundabout a short way ahead.

Real Cheddar cheese, maturing deep in a cave at the Gorge
(© Gary Bembridge CC2.0)
Somewhat surprisingly given its large geographic size and population of a little over 5000 people, Cheddar remains officially a village. It has been inhabited continuously since the Neolithic period, the skeleton of a Neolithic villager - Britain's oldest complete skeleton - having been discovered here in 1903. Remarkably, DNA analysis of a Neolithic skeleton from the area a few years ago was able to discover a direct descendent among the modern population. Palaeolithic remains, dated to 13,000 before the present, have also been discovered nearby.

The village is famous for its cheese which, often in sadly reduced and flavourless form, has become the most popular cheese in Britain. People who have not experienced the real Cheddar cheese, however, will be surprised by the powerful, earthy, nutty flavour of the real Cheddar which is still made here by the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company who age their product deep in caves along the Gorge.

Cheddar Gorge
Of course, it's the Gorge itself that made the village famous. By far the largest example of its kind in Britain and 137m from bottom to top at the deepest point, it was listed among the Four Wonders of Britain as long ago as 1130 and won second place behind the Dan yr Ogof caves in Wales in a poll to find the Seven Wonders of Britain in 2005. Formed over 1.2 million years by the actions of water on limestones, there are extensive caves leading away from the Gorge - Gough's Cave, discovered in 1903, extends for 400m while the smaller Cox's Cave has many very impressive geological features. One smaller cave houses a popular children's educational attraction called Crystal Quest, others are home to colonies of rare Greater and Lesser Horse-Shoe bats.

The stage's second sprint begins outside the Cox Mill Hotel on Cliff Street at the 81.9km point and leading immediately into the first categorised climb - Cat 1 Cheddar Gorge. Immediately upon entering the Gorge, 70m past the tea shops and cafes at the south-western end, the road negotiates the first hairpin. It's a right-hander, not too tight or steep and leads into a twisty 0.6km section to the next hairpin, another right and also not tight but considerably steeper. The remainder twists and turns, though no bends are particularly hazardous due in part to the slow speeds because of the climb, to the climb's end 5.1km later at a lay-by near a junction.

The following 15.3km are straightforward, remaining on the same road as it heads through various crossroads and past some villages with fantastical names - Priddy (look for the nine round barrows, ancient burial mounds, in a field to the right of the route just past Nine Barrows Lane and the three mysterious round earthworks in a row in the field on the other side of the road), Red Quar (which sounds strangely like the name of a piece of music to Aphex Twin fans) and Green Ore - before reaching a crossroads at the A37 by a pub called The Olde Mendip Inn; at which point the riders have completed 102.3km from the start. Here, they turn right and then pass straight through more crossroads 1.7km later before arriving at Shepton Mallet 1.5km later.

The Anglo-Bavarian Brewery (© David Ward CC3.0)
Shepton Mallet is the rather surprising home of the Anglo-Bavarian Brewery established in 1864 - it got its name when the owners employed Bavarian brewers to set up lager production here, and in doing so became the very first brewery in Britain to brew lager. It went out of business in 1920 and the grand building now sits amid an industrial estate, seemingly condemned to dilapidation despite its Grade II Listed status and inclusion on the Heritage at Risk Register. Also boasting Grade II status is Her Majesty's Prison Shepton Mallet, the oldest prison still in use in the United Kingdom having been opened in 1625. Like all prisons, it has much darkness in its history - the grounds contain the unmarked graves of at least seven people, but the number of executions carried out here before 1889 is unknown. It was closed in 1930, briefly being used to store important and secret documents until becoming an American military prison for two years until the end of the Second World War and seeing the executions of eighteen servicemen for various crimes. It became a British military prison after the war, then a civilian prison again in 1966. The gallows were removed in 1967, the room that housed them is now the library.

The roadbook says that the route follows the B3156 Waterloo Road through the town to the A371; but this is another error because Waterloo Road is actually the B3136. When the race arrives at the A371, riders take the third exit from the roundabout for Commercial Road and head into Croscombe (incorrectly spelled Crosscombe in the roadbook) 2.5km further on and staying left as the pass by Dulcote a short way ahead.

Wells Cathedral (© seier+seier CC2.0)
After 114.8km, the Tour reaches Wells, England's second smallest city with a population of around 10,500 people (St. David's, in Wales, is the smallest in Britain with just 1797 inhabitants). However, it has one of the grandest cathedrals in Europe, the seat of the Bishop of Bath and Wells. Construction began here in 1175 on the site of an earlier cathedral dating to 704. It was dedicated just over 60 years after work began in 1239, but the building was not completed for another two and half centuries until 1490.

The bishop's palace is almost the equal to the cathedral's grandeur - it was begun in 1210. The current bishop, now that priests are expected to be men (and women, in the more forward-thinking religions) of spirituality rather than wealth and power, inhabits only a small part of the Palace with much of the rest being open to the public. One of the most popular of the Palace's many attractions are the swans which live on the moat and have learned to ring a bell when they wish to be fed.

Upon entering the city, the peloton arrive at a roundabout and take the third exit onto Priory Road and cross what will become the finish line 300m later, beginning another sprint as they do so. Once it's over, the road becomes Broad Street for a short while, then changes once again to High Street before a left turn takes the race onto Market Place and Sadler Street. Turning right at the end leads onto New Street.

According to the roadbook, the riders need to turn right at traffic lights on New Street. This seems to be another error that should have been deleted prior to finalisation - firstly, a right turn leads away from the correct direction and makes the subsequent directions impossible to follow and secondly, it says that the traffic lights come 113.5km from the start whereas the feature before and after are at 116.3km and 116.7km. The latter is the left turn onto Old Bristol Road, and the final climb - Cat 1 Bristol Hill - begins right where Ash Lane joins from the right.

Unfortunately, the route doesn't include Vicar's Close in
Wells. Dating from the mid-14th Century, it's the oldest
residential street in Europe. No other buildings have been
added since it was first constructed. (© Clive Barry CC2.0)
The climb ends after 3km by a gate near Dursdon Grove (51°14'16.26"N 2°38'34.20"W), at which point the riders keep going towards a crossroads 1.3km ahead, passing straight through to another one 2.4km away and climbing still further along the way. The landscape may look familiar here - we're immediately right of the field with the nine barrows again. Having turned right, the race passes back along the B3135 and follows the same route as before  into Shepton Mallet.

Turning right at the junction with the A361 leads the race onto Commercial Road, becoming Pike Hill before continuing into Croscombe and onward back along the A371 to Wells. At the roundabout, they once again take the third exit to pass onto Priory Road and into the final straight 300m to the finish line, 146km from the start.

Predictions: While we think Geraint will do well again, we don't think he'll try to win this stage - it's too late in the race and he'll be concentrating on putting in good rides towards a hoped-for overall GC triumph. So, who will? It's very hard to predict because none of the teams have fielded any really mountain-munching grimpeurs, so it's down to the not-so-well-knowns. Of course, it might not be a climber at all. Once Bristol Hill's done and dusted, the rest of the parcours is downhill all the way and that's an ideal opportunity for Cav to recharge his batteries before Highroad lead him into that final sprint; a finish that will suit him perfectly.


Weather: It looks like we're in for another perfect September day - temperatures between 15 and 18C, light cloud permitting plenty of sunshine. The wind may be a little stronger than the last couple of days with average speeds predicted to be around 19kmh, gusting up to 37kph - so echelons are a distinct possibility. Once again, we should escape rain.


More Stage Guides: click here

A sad final note for Highroad

Highroad boss Bob Stapleton has
done more than most to rid the
sport he loves of doping
Few teams took such far-reaching steps to stamp out doping when it first became apparent that the practice was going to kill cycling as did HTC-Highroad. In fact, despite the still-persistent druggy image of the sport, Bob Stapleton's team has been nothing less than an example of how things needed to be done; not just in the professional cycling world but in all sports. Thus, it's nothing short of an ironic tragedy that the men's team will cease to exist at the end of the current season, due in large part to the unwillingness of potential sponsors to attach their names to cycling because of that image.

However, it seems that the team's exemplary record, now that the end is so near, may be shaken; through no fault of their own but by one single rider - Alex Rasmussen, the Danish track specialist taken on by the team from SaxoBank-Sungard for 2011 and who was due to go to Garmin-Cervelo for 2012, who missed an anti-doping control test earlier this summer and as such broke the team's internal rules which state that all riders on the books must comply with UCI requirements 100% and which led to his immediate dismissal from the team. Closer investigation, with UCI confirmation, revealed that Rasmussen had also missed two tests in 2010, but Highroad had not been informed of this when it signed the rider. He will also now no longer be representing his country at this year's World Championships.

Rasmussen, when racing for SaxoBank (when two of the
missed controls occurred) (CC3.0)
What matters most for the 27-year-old now is when the earlier incidents took place - the rule is, if a rider misses three controls within an 18-month period, he or she faces official sanction and a ban of up to two years. That's not the end of the world for a rider his age - he'd return, just as many other riders returned, still only 29 and with a good few years ahead of him.

The greatest and worst effect is, once again, on cycling's image. Many people with little knowledge of cycling will have almost subconsciously absorbed the news that Highroad's at the end of the road but won't be aware why. Now, when they see this story - and they will, because the press just love to print stories on doping in cycling - they'll automatically link the team's demise with Rasmussen's selfish decision to dope. They'll nod knowingly over their cornflakes and think to themselves, "Ah, I knew it! They're all at it!"

Thus all Stapleton's good work is undone, just a little more each time it happens; and other potential sponsors back away, unwilling to attach their names to a sport with a bad image among the mis-informed non-cycling public to whom the names on the jerseys have to appeal if the millions they would otherwise have ploughed into sport are to be worthwhile; because cycling fans, who would have read beyond the headline and got the full story, are a tiny minority.

Cheers, Alex. Nice one. Don't expect a warm welcome in two years' time if you get a ban.

Wednesday 14 September 2011

Tour of Britain - Stage 5 Guide

Exeter Cathedral (© Charles Miller CC2.0)
Stage Map: click here
Stage Profile: click here
More Stage Guides: click here

So which one's the Queen Stage this year? Yesterday's 184km trek through the Welsh mountains from one ancient castle to another, or today's 180km among some of the most challenging terrain in England from a Roman city to an age-old port? Whichever way you decide, you'll have to agree it's a close-run thing - both stages have everything necessary for a great cycle race: testing climbs, deadly descents and killer corners for a challenging parcours along with plenty to look at along the way. One thing's for certain - Britain might not have natural beauty on the scale that France, Spain and Italy have, but there's plenty of it in smaller portions and this race is undoubtedly among the greatest after the Grand Tours.

One fact about Stage 5 that's well worth knowing if you happen to live in the area - although the race itself loops far up into the Devon countryside to complete its full 180km, the start and finish lines in Exeter and Exmouth are only about 18.5km apart - that's 11.5 miles, a distance easily covered on a bike. Why not watch the start and then show your support for the riders and your appreciation of the bicycle itself by showing up at the finish line to welcome the winner with your own trusty steed by your side?

Like any successful city, Exeter recognises the need to
embrace the modern and that contemporary architecture
can be as beautiful as the ancient. The newly-built Court
complex is as fine a structure as the cathedral.
(© Derek Harper CC2.0)
Exeter has grown up in one of those locations that seems so ideally suited to human inhabitation that it could almost have been designed specifically to host a city. Centred around a hill on the eastern bank of a river both navigable and full of fish, it became an important trading post and supported a large and relatively wealthy population from ancient times - Greek coins discovered in the area show that there were trade routes between here and the Mediterranean at least two centuries before the Romans took control of England.

As we all know, the secret to Roman success was to make use and develop what they found in the lands they conquered, combining it with their own contributions to ensure local support and avoid having to start afresh as would be the case had they have ransacked and pillaged - this was very much the case here. More than a thousand Roman coins and an extensive baths complex have been discovered in the city and traces of the Roman walls remain, showing that they strengthened the trading routes and nurtured the old Celtic town into what would have been one of the most modern cities in Europe at the time. However, as tended to be the case throughout the country, Exeter entered a long period of decline during the Dark Ages when the nation became subject to rival kings and split into several warring states. There is no documentary mention of the city at all from the Romans' departure in the 5th Century right up until 680, a period of more that 250 years; however, the city didn't completely fall apart: the 680 documents records that St. Boniface - patron saint of Germany and the Netherlands and, according to some traditions, the inventor of the Christmas tree - was educated at an abbey in Exeter (in fact, he was born just 13km away at Crediton, site of a Catholic church that preserves a shrine to him.

If you like cathedrals - and whatever your opinions on Christianity and religion in general, you've got to admit that they're spectacular objects - the assembly point at the beginning of the neutral zone is going to be among your favourite spots anywhere along the 2011 parcours, because it's right in Cathedral Yard as depicted in our photograph of the church at the start of this guide (50°43'21.70"N 3°31'54.38"W). From here, the riders move out onto South Street, following it north for the short distance to a tight left turn onto the High Street - in fact, it's so tight with the widened footpath along the left side of the road that we may even see an early crash and pile-up here. The High Street becomes Fore Street which becomes New Bridge Street and joins the gyratory system based on the two wide bridges - the roadbook doesn't mention if both routes will be open, but the route to the right - against normal traffic flow - is considerably shorter. The road passes under the railway - not over, as Google Maps shows - and becomes Cowick Street, then changes again to Dunsford Road past the yellow box junction. The route turns right onto Tedburn Road at the bottom of Pocombe Hill, shortly before the A30 bridge and reaches the end of the neutral zone- where racing begins - by the nursery,  4.9km after setting off from the cathedral (50°43'14.47"N 3°34'48.44"W).

Tedburn St. Mary
(© Derek Harper CC2.0)
The road descends on Five Mile Hill just beyond the neutral zone and start of the race. However, though it's a long one it's not especially steep at any point, so won't generate massive speeds in the pack; which also means a gang of breakaway hopefuls might try to take advantage of it. The race reaches Pathfinder Village - a managed community for the retired - after 4.4km, taking the second exit at the roundabout 0.9km ahead towards Tedburn St. Mary.

Half a kilometre later, the peloton arrives at the first of a series of three roundabouts in 3.7km, taking the second exit at the first two and the third at the third. Note that the roadbook instructs riders to take the second exit at all three - however, this will lead onto the A30; whereas the third exit on the final roundabout leads into Cheriton Bishop and the start of the stage's first sprint beginning at the Mulberry Inn Pub (50°43'25.00"N 3°44'19.08"W).

House at Crockernwell (© TubeStudio CC3.0)
The riders arrive at Crockernwell after 14.4km, passing an extremely impressive stately home on the left. Having left Crockernwell, they follow the road for 6.09km; passing over the A30 and, after 20.1km from the start, arriving at an interchange and taking the exit for the A382 leading through Whiddon Down. The second exit at a small roundabout just beyond the village carries the race along the A382 and into Dartmoor National Park, one of Britain' most beautiful regions.

Almshouses, Moretonhampstead. Don't be fooled by the
stone carved with the date 1637 - dates on buildings often
refer to a momentous happening in the lives of past owners
or, as is the case here, to the date of a restoration or
refurbishment. In fact, research has revealed the Alms-
houses to be at least two centuries older.
(© Penny Maes CC2.0)
The following section most consists of straight, unchallenging stretches of road with the exception of a steep descent in woodland 2.61km from the Whiddon Down roundabout. With 31km covered since the start of the race, the riders reach Moretonhampstead, apparently the longest single-word place name in England. The town was granted a Royal Charter in 1207 by King John, an act that permitted it to exercise certain rights and to hold a weekly market and annual fair in return for paying the monarch a rent of... you'll like this... one sparrowhawk per year. The Domesday book records the local manor as having owned 5000 sheep; sheep having formed the basis of the local economy and bringing considerable wealth to the area prior to the industry's decline in the late 17th Century. However, Moretonhampstead's position left it ideally placed to act as a stopping point for travelers making what was in those times the difficult, dangerous journey over Dartmoor and thus it was able to survive in relative financial health, many of its fine ancient buildings surviving intact. Sadly, a number of them were destroyed in several fires during the 20th Century, but enough survives for the town to be very much worth visiting.

The A382 continues through the town, but there's a tricky section in the middle where a tight left leads to a crossroads 25m ahead at The Square, followed by a narrow passage - the several bus-stops nearby increasing the probability of spilled diesel on the road, making the initial corner even more potentially hazardous. In the rain, this section could be treacherous. Note the old tollhouse on the left just beyond the village where travelers would once have had to stop and pay to use the road - a method of funding road maintenance largely replaced in Britain by road tax except for a few sections such as bridges and tunnels operated by private concerns. The following 9.3km pass by wooded slopes, fine homes and some very, very beautiful countryside.

Sts. Peter, Paul and Thomas of Canterbury in
Bovey Tracey, built by the family of one of
men responsible for the latter saint's death
(© Derek Harper CC2.0)
Bovey Tracey comes after 40.8km. The name is a combination of the name of the river, often pronounced "buvvy" by locals, and that of the de Tracey family who became Norman lords of the manor following the Conquest. A descendant, William de Tracey, was one of the four knights who murdered Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, in 1170. William was excommunicated and exiled for his crime (a non-aristocrat would have suffered a far worse fate) and began making his way to Jerusalem to pray for forgiveness - what happened to him next is not known for certain. Some stories stay that he died of leprosy in Italy in 1174, others that he reached Jerusalem and spent the rest of his life praying, lamenting and seeking atonement before death and burial there. A tomb at Mortehoe, not far from here near Woollacombe, bears an extremely damaged inscription translated by some as reading "Syree Williame de Trace-Il enat eeys-Meercy" which has led some to believe he went into hiding but remained in the area. This inscription has, however, been explained by historians going on probable dates suggested by the decorative carvings on the tomb to refer a 14th Century descendant. His family, in penance, rebuilt the church which was subsequently rededicated to Saints Peter, Paul and Thomas of Canterbury - it still stands in the town to this day. If you're visiting the area with children, repay them for their patience while you watched the bikes with a visit to the House of Marbles, a museum of the game where they can race marbles around various obstacles on long marble runs. Entrance is free and you may as well admit it - you want a go, too.

Those following the race on television won't see much of Bovey Tracey unfortunately, because the route takes the third exit at the roundabout on the western perimeter and heads off on the B3387 in the opposite direction and immediately begins the first of the stages climbs; Category 1 Haytor Rocks. The riders take the left path at a junction 0.59km after the roundabout and cross a cattle grid 2.6km later - note that since it lies under overhanging trees, the rungs may host algae and other slimy stuff, meaning that they'll be even more dangerous than most. Riders would be wise to stick if at all possible to the sections kept clear by car tyres and avoid the edges or middle. The highest point is 2.85km along straight roads with few bends, through Haytor village and bt a carpark l(50°34'37.84"N 3°45'12.92"W). Hay Tor itself, one of the many granite outcrops left exposed after surrounding softer rock eroded that characterise the area, can be seen rising up to the right of the road.

Hay Tor (© Smalljim CC3.0)

The drinks station is 1.9km after the top of the climb, coming 165m before a cattle grid - which, in our opinion, is a mad place to put it. Drink and feed stations are notorious blackspots for crashes in cycle racing as riders scoot back and forth from their team mates to the team officials, carrying large numbers of bidons on the way back. Each team has its own preference to whereabouts in the zone its particular station will be, but all the same placing it so close to such a hazardous feature as a cattle grid seems as inadvisable as it is easily avoidable to us.

1.1km after the cattle grid, just around a left bend, the road enters a very steep descent with a gradient of 20%, dropping 70m in 0.5km - those with the bravery to do so will get up to very high speeds here, so keep your eyes on Thor Hushovd of Garmin-Cervelo who hit incredible speeds on the descent into Lourdes during this year's Tour de France, enabling him to win the stage. Those who are not so comfortable on steep descents will be extremely cautious here.

St. Pancras, Widecombe - a woodcut depicting
the Great Thunderstorm of 1638
At the bottom of the hill, 150m lower, is Widecombe-in-the-Moor with a 14th Century church dedicated to St. Pancras and often called the Cathedral of the Moors on account of its grandeur. On a Sunday in 1638, the village was hit by what has become known as the Great Thunderstorm, during which the church suffered much damage due to what is now believed to have been ball lightning. According to eyewitness accounts, there were about 300 people attending a service when the storm struck, plunging the church into an eerie darkness. Suddenly, "a great ball of fire" smashed through a window and entered the building, bouncing around the interior and killing four of those whom it contacted while leaving others completely unharmed. A man named Robert Meade was thrown so hard against a pillar by the ball that it bears an indentation to this day; his skull was shattered and his brain dashed on the flagstones. Unsurprisingly, the phenomenon was attributed to the Devil, said variously to have come to take the souls of the four who had been apparently playing cards during the service or due to a local gambler named Jan Reynolds who had made an unholy pact to guarantee success at the card table, his side of the bargain being that his soul would become the Devil's possession should he ever fall asleep in church. This explanation was apparently confirmed when the landlady of the nearby Tavistock Inn claimed that her pub had been visited by a man riding a black horse the night before the storm. When he entered the pub to ask for directions, he was seen to have cloven hooves instead of human feet and when he drank his ale, it hissed as it went down his throat. He left coins on the bar in payment but, when the landlady tried to pick them up, they turned into dry leaves.

After passing straight through the oncoming crossroads and junction while climbing, the route enters another very steep descent at the 56.1km point. The steepest part comes at a crossroads shortly after a left-handed bend by farm buildings (50°33'19.24"N 3°49'47.15"W), dropping 50m in 0.68km to Ponsworthy. As if that wasn't enough of a hazard, there's a very narrow bridge (this is the reason the village has remained so unspoiled - tourist coaches can't get to it) at the lowest point just as the race enters the tiny hamlet and the Ponsworthy Splash, a ford - there's a narrow, dry footway which one or two riders may be able to take, but the majority are going to get wet.

The Coffin Stone (CC from Geolocation)
Cat 2 Dartmeet Hill starts in the hamlet with the highest point 1.2km ahead at the ominously-titled Coffin Stone, lying split in two by the road. According to legend, pall-bearers carrying coffins over the hill for burial at Widecombe would stop for a break here, placing the coffin on the stone while they had a nip of fortifying whisky and, if the inhabitant of the coffin had been a popular character, carve his or her initials into the rock. One day, they were carrying a coffin containing the mortal remains of a man said to have been the most evil in the parish when a storm began to blow up, making them look forward to the whisky even more than usual. When they placed the coffin down, a bolt of lightning shot down from the crowds, cracking the rock in two and completely engulfing the coffin in white fire which, as was discovered once they were able to approach, completely consumed both it and its contents. Crosses and letters can still be seen carved into the rock, suggesting that coffins may once have been temporarily placed here, but the split is far more likely to have been caused by ice expanding in tiny fissures over many winters.

Fox Tor (© Herby CC1.2&others)
The descent is short, leading to a T-junction 0.6km ahead where the peloton turn right and then, 0.1km later, begin the next climb, Cat 2 Huccaby Tor. The highest point is at 59.6km, at which point the race heads towards another 20% gradient descent ending at a cattle grid and narrow bridge leading into Dartmeet. There's another cattle grid 0.7km after Dartmeet, another 2.4km later and a third 1.8km after that. Note the large stone-built enclosure in the the field to the right as the races passes through. As the race crosses the 66km mark, approximately 1km from the last kilometre, it passes to the left of Fox Tor Mires - a treacherous peat bog that still claims the lives of walkers to this day and which is said to have been the inspiration for Grimpen Mire, the location of Jack Stapleton's secret hideout in the Hound of the Baskervilles. We wonder if he might be an ancestor of HTC-Highroad manager Bob Stapleton? (And before anyone emails to inform us that the story is fictional and so for that matter is Sherlock Holmes, don't bother - we know.)


The ancient clapper bridge, Postbridge
The Two Bridges hotel appears after 69km, where the riders turn 110 degrees onto the B3212 and begin heading back to Moretonhampstead, arriving at Postbridge along the way. The village has a well-preserved clapper bridge, believed to date from the 13th Century and probably constructed to allow the passage of packhorses carrying tin to Tavistock. There's another cattle grid around 0.55km after the village, then a long straight section leading across the moor to the Warrenhouse Inn - the highest pub in southern England and with possibly the finest views enjoyed by any pub in England. No matter what the weather outside, the fire in the pub has been kept burning continuously since 1845. According to local legend, a traveler staying at the Inn at some unspecified point in the past was a little surprised when he opened a trunk in his room and discovered a human corpse within. When he informed the landlord, he was told that the corpse was the landlord's father; salted by his wife and put there until the weather improved and he could be transported to Tavistock for burial.


The first part of the road ahead is straight, but a couple of tricky bends lie 3.46km away by a carpark. The first, a wide right, wouldn't normally be hazardous were it not at the end of a fast descent and in an area where there's a fairly high possibility of the sheep, cows and Dartmoor ponies which roam semi-wild about the moors leaving slippery little presents on the tarmac - there's another cattle grid at 82km, too. The second,a left, is 0.27km further on; the same potential hazards being compounded by the much tighter turn. There are two more 1.58km ahead; the first being a tight left and the second a tight 90 degree right 0.27km later, just before the road passes the Miniature Pony Centre, another attraction worth knowing about if you need to bribe children into behaving themselves while you watch the race.
Dartmoor, covering 954 square kilometres, has been a
National Park since 1951


Moretonhampstead makes its second appearance as the race reaches 87.5km with the peloton taking the second exit at the roundabout to ride onto Court Street, staying on the left of the road to line themselves up for New Street and a left turn at the oncoming T-junction onto the A382 which they'll follow over two crossroads to the feed station at 96.9km - the same route as earlier, but ridden in the other direction. It begins at a sign for a campsite (50°42'20.18"N 3°51'8.80"W and ends at the 30mph zone signs just beyond Whiddon Down.


The roadbook instructs us to take the second exit on the roundabout onto the A3124. Problem - the A3124 is rather a long way from here. Thus, going on the supplied left/right directions, we think they mean the A382. It then tells us to turn left 0.4km later onto the A3219. Problem 2 - the A3219, also known as Dawes Road, is some distance away in Hammersmith, West London. The B3219, meanwhile, is in the right spot. This leads over the A30 and north to a crossroads 8.8km away just south of North Tawton, where a right turn carries the peloton onto the A3072 - the book gets that one right. It's long, straight and - in comparison with the beautiful moorland roads earlier on in the stage - rather boring for the 5.4km section into Bow. As it happens, the distance is roughly the same as that between the A3219 and Bow Street in London - we wonder if that's where the mix-up began? 


Copplestone Cross
A depiction pf a knight carved above a doorway at St. Bartolomew's Church in Bow (actually in the contiguous village of Nymet Tracey) is said to be a representation of the same William de Tracey we met earlier. Approximately 1km to the west is a woodhenge, plainly visible in aerial photographs. Believed to have been used for similar purposes as the better-known stone circles, archaeological investigation following discovery in 1984 located 19 postholes.


The road passes straight through with the peloton staying left at the junction near the end of the village to remain in the same road and arrive at Copplestone 5.3km later, site of the 3.2m tall intricately carved menhir known as the Copplestone Cross, first mentioned in 974 but evidently much older. It looks rather incongruous and dejected, standing on a junction in the middle of the town.


The race continues straight ahead at traffic lights, crossing the railway bridge as the road becoming the A377. There's a potentially dangerous left bend under overhanging trees 2.6km after the bridge, the the remainder of the section past Barnstaple Cross into Crediton - birthplace of St. Boniface, remember? - 124.3km from the start. The unusually late second sprint starts 0.7km later on Western Road, just outside Queen Elizabeth's school. We hope that the inmates will be allowed out to watch the race, because we'd have been too annoyed for words had a major bike race passed by our schools and we hadn't been permitted to watch. Once over, straight ahead leads onto the High Street and Union Road, then the peloton turn right onto East Street just past the Church of the Holy Cross and the Mother of Him who Hung Thereon, site of St. Boniface's shrine and commonly known as Crediton Parish Church for obvious reasons.

Traditional Devon cob houses, Silverton (© Penny Maes, CC2.0)
East Street takes the race onto Mill Street after a left turn, leading to a junction 1.5km later where the peloton turn 90 degrees right onto an unclassified road leading around a golf course. The road bends to the left, reaches a crossroads and continues ahead past Shobrooke. Some way beyond the village, the race reaches a T-junction where riders will need to turn right and then left 25m later to continue towards a kicked crossroads  2.5km later, requiring the same process but on an even smaller scale. The road then leads into Thorverton, where the race turns left along Bullen Street and follows the road through to Latchmore Green and a T-junction with the A396, 138.8km from the start, turning left to head north and then right 1.1km onto Upexe Lane into Silverton.

Arriving at a roundabout, the riders take the second exit onto School Road then repeat 0.3km later to join Park Road. This leads to a crossroads 0.8km later where they go straight through, keeping right to arrive at Ellerhayes, following the road to a T-junction 146.1km from the start, just over a bridge crossing the M5 motorway. A right turn leads into Broadclyst 2.3km later. Just south of Broadclyst and contiguous with it is one our very favourite British place-names, Dog Village. At a junction 1.2km ahead, the riders turn left onto Station Road, staying right past Broadclyst Station until they arrive at a T-junction and a left turn towards Rockbeare. The final sprint begins 2.3km at Cranbrooke Veterinary Surgery.

To the south of Whimple - not in the town, as the roadbook appears to suggest - the road reaches a roundabout. The peloton take the second exit to pass under the A30, arriving immediately at a second roundabout where they once again take the second exit, leading them out onto the B3180. They pass straight through the crossroads 2.6km ahead. After 164.7km, the arrive at a junction with the A3052 where they need to turn left and then right 40m later to get back onto the B3180. Having passed along the fantastically named Outer Ting Tong road, the race travels through a tight right/left Z-bend and to a junction with the B3178. They turn right here onto Salterton Road and head into Exmouth, continuing straight through several traffic lights before reaching a roundabout 179.6km from the start and taking the second exit onto Carlton Hill.

The Clock Tower, Exmouth, built to commemorate Queen
Victoria's diamond jubilee in 1897
The following section is straight for 223m, ending with a slight kink to the right. They turn right 56m later and begin the final sprint. There's a slight bend to the left after 95m, followed by a straight 182m to the end of the race at the Clock Tower 180.3km from the start (50°36'57.12"N 3°24'54.35"W).

While their is evidence of trade with overseas taking place in Exmouth during pre-Norman Conquest times, including a number of Byzantine coins found on the beach in the 1970s, Exmouth didn't develop into a town until the 13th Century; progression having been held up by the shallow waters at the edges of the estuary and the economic power of Exeter. The modern town came into being during the late 18th Century, when sea-bathing became a fashion among the rich and trendy; making it the oldest seaside resort on Devon. The modern docks were built in the 19th Century and parts of the estuary dredged so that larger vessels could come into port. It was connected to the railways in 1861, facilitating the beginnings of mass tourism and a golden age during which it became increasingly wealthy - many of the grand buildings date from this time.

Predictions: It's almost certainly a stage for a climber, though none of the climbs today compare with the high mountain passes of the Tour de France so it could also go to a strong all-rounder. However, those two steep descents will permit any rider with the confidence to ride them fast to build up a good time advantage - which is why we favour Thor Hushovd on this one.


Weather: Not looking too bad, though it's not going to be particularly warm with lows of around 13C and highs up to 17C. It can get colder on Dartmoor, so spectators planning to watch the race there should take extra clothing. The wind, blowing from the east, will be very light throughout the race - though once again, things can change quickly on Dartmoor. No rain is predicted anywhere, nor are giant thunderstorms with ball lightning either produced by the Devil or otherwise.


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